Harrows disk bdm three-row. Three-row bdm disc harrows Mulching strawberry plantings

Three-row modernized PM disc harrow with a bearing assembly inside the disc sphere, with discs on an individual stand, with a change in the angle of attack of the discs synchronously in each row, is designed for surface tillage to a depth of 17 cm, weed control and crop residues. Due to the uniform mixing of the earth with plant residues, the use of a disc harrow is effective on soils subject to wind and water erosion. Plant residues, evenly mixed with the top layer of soil, protect the soil from blowing and washing out, improve air exchange. At the same time, plant residues, being in the ground, actively turn into humus, increasing soil fertility.

The three-row disc harrow is used in various agro-climatic zones of Russia, on all types of soils, except for stony ones. The use of a three-row harrow is effective for introducing fallow lands into circulation, basic and pre-sowing cultivation in the system of minimum tillage, rejuvenation of degrading meadows and pastures.

Features of 3-row PM harrows in comparison with 2- and 4-row harrows:

Four-row harrows have a rather small distance between rows - 675mm. This distance is limited by the possibility of transporting all-frame structures to the consumer. As a result, the ground thrown up by the front rows of discs interferes with the operation of subsequent rows of discs. To prevent clogging of the tool, you have to either reduce the speed or reduce the depth of processing. For three-row implements, the distance between the discs in a row decreased to 350mm, but the distance between the rows increased significantly, up to 950mm. The working width for each disc and the clearance between discs is exactly the same for three rows as for four rows. Therefore, a three-row harrow, as well as a four-row harrow, is able to work in fields with large weeds and to great depths.

The distance between the first and last row in a three-row is the same as in a four-row. The frame developed in length helps to smooth out small irregularities in the field. Three-rows are also excellent planners, they easily smooth out pile ridges, breakup furrows, deep ruts, molehills, etc. Thus, a three-row harrow is indispensable for putting fallow lands into circulation.

The main advantages of 3-row implements over competitors:

1. In BDT-AGRO, research was carried out, a new, rational arrangement of disks was developed and repeatedly tested. The distance in a row for three-row rows was 350 mm. This made it possible to reduce the power of the tractor and save up to 12% of fuel compared to implements of similar width from other manufacturers, without compromising the quality of tillage.

2. For BDT-AGRO implements, the disc rack has a channel and a groove for lubrication. It is enough to lubricate once a season, so each tool is equipped with only one special bolt with an oiler. In emergency cases, you can unscrew the rack mounting bolt, apply grease and push it into the connection when tightening the same bolt. This greatly improved the performance of the connection and dismantling of the rack.

3. All implements are equipped as standard with a mechanism for adjusting the working depth (track roller). At the same time, the rollers located behind the chassis are adjusted using spring shock absorbers, which significantly reduces the load on the implement when working on uneven terrain and when the tractor is galloping.

4. Folding implements up to 6m wide have a transport width of 2.55m. This allows you to drive on public roads unaccompanied.

5. A common disadvantage of all disc harrows is that the outer disc of the last row leaves behind an open deep furrow. On the implements of BDT-AGRO LLC, the last stand of the last row is 40 mm shorter than the other stands. As a result of this, the outer disc of the last row is 40 mm higher than the other discs. Therefore, it leaves a shallow furrow, although it undercuts, crushes and discards enough earth to cover the furrows left by the front row discs and the own row discs. The final leveling of the field is carried out by a packer. Thus, the patented design solution used on the implements of BDT-AGRO LLC improves the quality of field processing.

Disc harrow BDT-7 is a wide-cut tillage machine. It is used in agriculture for processing soil from dense rocks. The device is used after completion of plowing areas and harvesting crops that require large reserves of moisture and nutrients, such as corn, cabbage and potatoes. BDT-7 is suitable for processing pastures and meadows. With this unit, you can:

• mulching;
• development of layers of perennial grasses;
• pre-sowing work with the earth;
• stubble peeling;
• early spring harrowing.

Technical specifications

Specifications for the BDT-7 are provided by the Ukrainian manufacturer Agrotechkomplekt, which specializes in tillage equipment. The working speed of the disc harrow is 6–12 km/h. The productivity of the apparatus is in the range from 5.2 to 7.2 ha/h. Device dimensions: 4560x3800x1640 mm. Between the discs with a diameter of 62.5 cm there is a space of 220 mm. The processing depth of the unit reaches 20 cm.

The mass of the disc harrow BDT-7 is 4280 kg. It can work with various tractors, classes of which are from 1.4 to 4. Models K-700 and T-150 are used. The working width is 7 m. The equipment can reach a maximum transport speed of up to 20 km/h. There is the possibility of adjusting the angle of attack of the batteries. It changes to 12, 15 and 18 degrees. Ground clearance indicators - 25 cm.

The principle of operation of the disk unit

The disc harrow is made of an articulated frame, which contains three sections, a hydraulic drive and a battery of cut-out spherical discs.

To raise the side sections to the transport position, hydraulic cylinders and extensions are used. To do this with the middle sections, the axle of the transport wheels must be rotated.

In order to adjust the depth of processing, the angle of attack of the BDT-7 is changed. It is required to loosen the battery fixing nut. After that, it will be possible to place special pins in the holes that are on the frame bars. Then it is necessary to move the batteries to the extreme position, tighten the nuts and achieve a uniform stroke using the tractor hydraulic system. To do this, you need to change the position of the BDT-7 harrow trailer.

Disc harrows

Disc harrows are light (field and garden) and heavy. Light harrows are used for tillage, post-arable loosening of sod layers, stubble peeling, and refreshment of slightly sod meadows. Garden harrows are designed for tillage between rows of gardens. The processing depth of garden harrows is up to 10 cm. Heavy harrows are used for cutting soddy layers after plowing virgin and fallow lands, disking swampy soils, cultivating meadows and pastures, incorporating fertilizers and stubble residues. Depth of processing up to 20 cm.

The working body of light disc harrows is a steel pointed spherical disk with a diameter of 450 mm to 510 mm (Fig. 2, a). Heavy disc harrows have cut discs with a diameter of 660 mm (Fig. 2, b), which are well buried in the soil and intensively crush plant residues. Several discs mounted on an axle form a battery. The disks on the axis are placed at some distance from one another, and spacer bobbins are inserted between them. The axis is installed in bearings 11 and the battery rotates during movement.

Figure 2 Drives: a. light harrow disk, b - heavy harrow disk.

Batteries on the frame are fixed in two rows at an angle to the direction of movement. The front batteries work at a waddle, the rear ones - in a heap. For better crumbling of the soil, the disks of the rear batteries are offset relative to the disks of the front batteries. The angle between the plane of rotation of the disk and the line of direction of the harrow is called the angle of attack. It can be changed from 0 to 21 degrees. When processing dry and hard soils, the angle of attack is increased, when disking wet and light soils, it is reduced.

As the harrow moves, the discs engage the soil and rotate. The cutting edge of the disk cuts off the soil layer and raises it to the inner spherical surface. Then the soil falls from a certain height and is taken away by the disc. As a result of moving along the disk and falling, the soil crumbles, partially turns around and mixes up. With an increase in the angle of attack, the disks sink deeper into the soil, its crumbling increases. The depth of tillage is set by changing the angle of attack and the pressure of the disks on the soil. The pressure is adjusted by changing the mass of the ballast or the compression force of the compression springs.

Disc harrows are less clogged than tooth harrows, cut thin roots and roll over thick ones. The discs are not suitable for working on stony soils, as their blades crumble.

Heavy disc harrow BDT-3.0

The heavy disc harrow BDT-3.0 is designed for the development of primary plowing layers raised by shrub-bog plows on mineral and peat soils, in addition, the harrow can be used to care for meadows and pastures, as well as cutting blocky plowing.

The harrow is used in all soil and climatic zones. The harrow should provide good loosening of layers to a depth of up to 16 cm on mineral soils, and on peat soils up to 25 cm in two passes. The second pass is recommended to be carried out at an angle to the direction of the first pass (cross cutting). It is forbidden to work with a harrow on stony soils.

Table 1. Technical characteristics of the BDT-3.0 harrow

Name	Meaning
	trailed
Productivity per hour of clean work, ha.
Operating speed, km/h.
Transport speed, km/h.
Capture width, m
Weight (without tools and spare parts), kg.
Weight of tools and spare parts, kg
Dimensions, mm In working position:
In transport position:
Ground clearance, mm
Diameter of working bodies, mm.
The distance between the discs in the assembled section at the places where the bobbins fit
Angle of attack of disks, hail.
Depth of processing, see After plowing When peeling stubble
Aggregation	Tractor class 3-7 t.

The two front batteries work "tossed", the two rear ones - "tossed". The processing depth of 6-18 degrees is adjusted by changing the angle of attack of the battery. The angle of attack is selected depending on the working conditions: the larger the angle of attack, the greater the depth of processing and the more complete the cutting of plant residues.

Four disk batteries 11 are attached to the frame 4 (Fig. 3) by means of brackets. The batteries are made up of spherical cut-out disks with a diameter of 660 mm, mounted on a round axis. The front and right rear batteries have seven disks each, the left rear has eight. An additional battery disk trims the blemishes left between the front batteries. The discs are cleaned with scrapers 10.

The uniformity of the depth of the discs is adjusted using the frame alignment mechanism. The lever 5 connected to it is connected by an adjusting screw 2 to the towing device 1, and the rod 6 is connected to the fist 9 of the crank axle 8. when the screw 2 is rotated, the lever 5 moves the rod 6, which with the fist 9 turns the axle with the support wheels.

The depth of processing is regulated by changing the angle of attack of the disks (12, 15 and 18 degrees), pushing or moving the outer ends of the batteries.

The harrow is transferred to the transport position by the hydraulic cylinder 7, lowering the wheels 3 down.

Figure 3. Heavy disc harrow BDT-3.0 1 - towing device, 2 - adjusting screw, 3 - wheel, 4 - frame, 5 - lever, 6 - thrust, 7, 5 - hydraulic cylinders, 8 - crank axle, 9 - fist, 10 - scraper, 11 - batteries.

The width of the harrow is 3 m, the productivity is 1.75 ha/h, the working speed is 8-10 km/h, the working depth is up to 20 cm.

The harrow is aggregated with tractors with a traction class of 3-4 tons.

In anticipation of field work, the article will help to reveal the technical potential of the disc harrow BDT 3, the photo of which you see, and also introduces the opinion of the owners of the equipment. The material contains prices for the BDT 3 product and video and photographic materials are used.

Perhaps familiarity with the technical indicators of the harrow will come in handy in the future. A video about the operation of the disc harrow BDT 3 is at the end of the article.

Purpose and device of the disc harrow BDT 3

After harvesting grain crops, soil layers are used to develop soil layers. They are also used to cultivate virgin lands. They cut the land after plowing and prepare it for the sowing campaign. Possibly an effective application for stubble cultivation and maintenance of meadows and pastures. Its use is not limited by anything, so the harrow is used in all soil and climatic zones.

The trailed unit in question is used in two positions.

1. In transport position.
2. And in working order.

The transition from one position to another is carried out using a hydraulic system that lowers or raises the structure. The harrow, consisting of four batteries, is made in the form of the letter "X".

Disc harrow BDT 3 specifications

Mounted, with a hydraulic control system, BDT 3, with a working width of 3.6 meters aggregates with tractors of the 3rd and 4th classes. It enters the topsoil at a maximum of 200 mm. In one hour, it can process from 2.5-3 hectares of land.

The angle of attack of disk batteries is respectively 6 0 , 10 0 , 14 0 , 18 0 . The dimensions of the disc harrow are L/W/H = 4800/3000/1520 mm; tire sizes of transport wheels in terms of 6.5-16 inches. In addition, you should be satisfied with the soil penetration indicators:

1. When peeling stubble 200 mm.
2. After plowing 120 mm.
3. On peatlands in three passes of 250 mm.

Reviews of the owners of the disc harrow BDT 3

Many owners have previously used disc harrows to work the land. They say that their penetration into the soil from one pass is deeper than a harrow. But the speed indicators of tillage are slower:

Owners are satisfied with a reliable fixation:

• angle of attack of disk sections;
• side frames of the harrow during transport.

Price for disc harrow BDT 3

Under the order, a harrow can be purchased on the territory of Russia for 250,000.00 rubles. In the secondary market, the cost, depending on the condition and manufacturer, ranges from 175,000.00 - 207,000.00 rubles. the price trend depends on the seasonality of the sale and the region. Price fluctuations can reach almost 100,000.00 rubles.

Summing up, it can be argued that the equipment is reliable and will work for the planned 6 years. Proper maintenance can last much longer. And the possibility of buying out on lease, or purchasing equipment with a deferred payment, enables large farms and farmers to cultivate the soil in a quality manner.

In most cases, ordinary garden or garden land is not enough to create the most comfortable growing conditions for strawberries, since it must have the following qualities:

1. Sufficient level of fertility.
2. The lightness of the soil, this criterion is best met by a loamy or sandy loam type of soil.
3. Waterproof.
4. Lack of groundwater in the immediate vicinity.
5. The absence of fungal spores, various viruses and insects that feed on this culture in the soil.
6. Decreased level of acid composition.

Which soil is suitable and which is not?

Soil for garden strawberries must meet the following parameters:

• be loose;
• have a pH close to neutral - 5.5-8;
• contain water - 70-90%;
• have a high content of humus - approximately 3%.

Strawberries feel bad on these types of soils:

• clay;
• sandy;
• sod-podzolic;
• peat;
• light grey.

Landing dates

Now let's decide on the timing of planting our seedlings for permanent residence.

In principle, you can plant garden strawberries for almost the entire summer season, from May to mid-September.

But in order to get a good harvest, it is still better to stick to spring and autumn planting.

Many gardeners believe that spring planting of strawberries is better, since the berry will begin to fully bear fruit the very next year, and in autumn - only a year later.

Spring planting starts from April 20-30 (in regions with a warm climate), and until June 15. Try not to be late with spring planting so that moisture does not leave the soil.

If we plant later than this period, then it is likely that the plants will go into winter without a sufficiently developed aerial part, root system and will not have time to lay flower buds.

And this means that they either will not survive the cold winter at all, or in the spring they will wither for a long time, coming to their senses.

On this, perhaps, I end the article. In the future, we will talk about the rules for planting garden strawberries and caring for them.

And now watch a few videos with different ways of growing strawberry seedlings from Yulia Minyaeva. Maybe one of them will be to your liking. I personally liked all

A source

Autumn is considered the most favorable period for planting strawberries in open ground. It is better to choose the middle or the end of September for this. The timing is perfect, as the soil is no longer hot from the scorching summer sun, but still warm from the autumn chill. Moreover, there is enough time before the start of winter for the plants to take root and get stronger for frost.

The taste and aroma of the fruit depends on where the strawberries grow. In sunny areas that have received a moderate amount of moisture, strawberries grow sweeter and more juicy. But in shady areas, it can be small and sour.

Preparing for landing

Before planting the plant, the soil should be processed in advance:

• dig;
• apply the required fertilizers;
• water thoroughly.

Each point is important - there are no trifles in such a case. Only proper soil preparation allows you to count on getting a bountiful harvest.

If planting is planned in the spring, the ground is prepared in the fall. If you plan to breed strawberries in September, dig the soil at least half a month before the event. Autumn planting is recommended to be performed in August-September, when it is still warm, the temperature of the earth is suitable for engrafting a mustache.

By digging, weed roots are destroyed. This will allow the strawberries to develop better. Digging depth - spade bayonet. Simultaneously with this procedure, humus, peat, and mineral fertilizers are added.

Strawberry yields are affected by crops grown in the area previously. Suitable areas where peas, onions or garlic, herbs and beans, radishes or carrots grew. It is undesirable to plan planting after tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes and cabbage, as well as zucchini.

It is important to pre-mark the site, determine the distance between the beds. Strawberries cannot be planted close, it is required to ensure the distance between each row is 60 cm, while inside the row between the bushes you need to leave a gap of 20 cm. By performing such simple manipulations, you can significantly improve the efficiency of the soil, positively affecting the yield.

Soil fertility level for strawberry crop

Land that contains 3% humus is the most fertile soil option for growing strawberries, it is in such soil that it will feel most comfortable and begin to consistently produce large volumes of berry crops.

The humus content indicator is necessary to maintain the optimal amount of moisture in the soil, so if the soil is not fertile enough, then this situation can be corrected as follows:

1. To introduce a significant amount of mullein in compliance with the terms and technology of this process, which will increase the humus content.
2. Take comprehensive measures to prepare the beds for planting strawberries, the main stages are discussed in detail above.
3. Plant plants that change the chemical composition of the soil, making it noble.
4. Buy land of the required quality, which is quite an expensive option.

soil for planting strawberries

The composition of the soil for strawberries must meet certain requirements. For abundant fruiting, the soil must be well breathable, loose and easy to work. It should absorb water well and warm up.

The best option would be soil with a high content of black soil, which is not common. Therefore, for the gardener, the first priority is to optimize the existing land.

Choosing a place for strawberries

The choice of a place for planting our favorite berry is a very responsible matter, since both the further development of the plant and its yield depend on it.

So you and I will have to, as they say, "measure seven times and cut only once."

Garden strawberries prefer to grow in well-lit areas, which are also protected from the winds.

Of course, it can grow in the shade, but then the strawberries will stretch out, the leaves will grow more actively, and not the berries.

The berries will ripen longer, and they will taste much sourer, and much more labor will have to be invested in their cultivation.

To protect plantings of garden strawberries from the wind, we plant them under the barrier of buildings or shrubs, fruit trees. If this is not possible, then you can create a wind screen from sunflowers or corn by planting them in two rows.

Strawberries prefer to grow on a flat surface or on a slight slope. It is best if the slope is facing southwest.

Planting berries, in this case, is necessary in the middle or lower part of the slope, but not in the upper. We place rows of garden strawberries across the slope, in order, firstly, to save melt water in the spring, and secondly, to save the top arable layer of the earth from washing off.

Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Our favorite likes to grow on neutral or slightly acidic soils. If it is strongly sour, then be sure to make it.

The best option is to carry out liming a year before planting garden strawberries (still under the previous crop) or, in extreme cases, two months before planting.

By adding lime to the soil just before planting, you will greatly slow down the growth of the roots of the plant. And therefore, seedlings of garden strawberries will take root for quite a long time.

He does not like strawberries and low places with a groundwater level of less than 0.8-1.0 m.

If you don’t have higher places on your site, then plant strawberries on bulk beds with a height of at least 25-30 cm.

Since strawberries give the best harvest in the second and third years after planting, it is recommended to transplant them to a new place every 3-4 (at least 4-5 years) of the year.

And only after 2-3 years it will be possible to return the berry to its former place of residence.

Proper crop rotation is also very important for strawberries: this is how the berry grows well after garlic, onions, radishes, parsley and other herbs, carrots, legumes, green manure; it is undesirable to plant after nightshade, pumpkin, as there is a possibility of damage by root rot or a nematode.

And one more piece of advice, place your strawberry clearing away from planting raspberries and plums, due to the fact that there is a danger of losing half of the crop from the raspberry-strawberry weevil.

For strawberry bushes, well-lit places are ideal, where beans, beets, carrots, lettuce, garlic, radishes, celery, dill grew before. But in areas after pepper and potatoes, cabbage and eggplant, planting strawberries is not recommended.

Any type of soil can be suitable for this crop, except for wetlands. A slightly larger yield and large berries grow on loam, black soil, sandy loam soils. An ideal harvest can be obtained even on heavy soils by adding peat, humus, manure or ash. It is desirable that the soil has an acidity in the range of - 5.5 - 6.5 pH.

Soil optimization for strawberries

The most suitable soil for strawberries is sandy or loamy. These types of soils have many positive qualities:

• ease of processing;
• sufficient nutrition;
• good breathability;
• excellent absorbent qualities;
• they warm up quickly and cool down slowly.

The structures of sandy and loamy soils do not need to be improved. When preparing a site for planting on such soils, it is necessary to replenish the supply of nutrients through the introduction of organic matter (half a bucket per square meter) and complex mineral fertilizers.

The most fertile and potentially promising for growing strawberries is chernozem soil, but, unfortunately, it is quite rare in household plots.

The structure of poor sandy, heavy clay soil can be improved, optimized to acceptable requirements. When preparing ridges for planting on clay soils, it should be added:

• peat;
• coarse-grained river sand;
• lime;
• ash.

Peat and sand additives will act as a baking powder, increase the water-absorbing qualities of the soil. The introduction of lime or ash will neutralize the additional acidity that peat will bring, increase the air permeability of the soil.

Helpful information! For each bucket of peat brought in, add 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour or a glass of ash.

Improve soil looseness and the addition of rotted sawdust:

• fresh sawdust is moistened with a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water);
• dolomite flour or ash is added to the wetted composition, mixed and left for several days in a waterproof bag in a warm place.

The sawdust prepared in this way is plowed into the soil during the autumn digging of the site. Horse manure is ideal as an organic fertilizer for clay soil.

Horse manure warms up better, quickly gives off heat, is distinguished by a smaller number of weed seeds and is practically not affected by various pathogenic microflora characteristic of manure.

Sandy soils are the least fertile, so before organizing a strawberry bed, peat, compost, humus, clay or drill flour should be added to them. In order to create a fertile bed in a plot with sandy soil, from which you can quickly get a bountiful harvest, you can use the following method:

1. Fence off the area where the ridge will be located.
2. Lay the bottom of the future beds with a layer of clay.
3. Pour 30–40 cm of fertile (sandy, loamy, chernozem) soil on top of the clay.

The cost of creating an artificial bed will pay off with a high yield of strawberries

The measures taken will improve the structure of the soil, increase its nutritional value, and provide sufficient air and moisture permeability.

Soil acidity

Absolutely exactly the acidity of the soil on the site can be determined using laboratory analysis. At home, you can also set this indicator, and in different ways. Of course, such data will not be absolutely accurate, but will help determine the necessary measures to optimize acidity.

Table vinegar can help determine the acidity of the soil. You need to take a handful of earth and drop acetic acid on it. If small bubbles appear on the surface of the studied soil, it means that there is a sufficient amount of lime in it, which extinguishes vinegar, that is, the soil has a neutral acidity. If there is no reaction, it can be concluded that the soil in the area is acidified.

The presence of a reaction of vinegar with the soil indicates its neutrality (in the photo on the left), acidic soil does not give such a reaction (photo on the right)

Another way is to observe indicators of acidity, which can be wild plants of the site that have spread naturally and have a large number.

Table: plants-indicators of soil acidity

Adjusting soil acidity for strawberries

Garden strawberries prefer slightly acidic and neutral soils. To make acidic soil useful for planting strawberries, it must be limed. For liming, river tuff, dolomite flour, marl, ground limestone, fluff are used.

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Important! Freshly limed soils can inhibit the root system of strawberries, so liming is best done in advance, under previous crops.

Lime is applied in autumn and spring during the digging of the site.

If you are late with the liming procedure, then it is better to postpone it until the time when the strawberries take root and get stronger.

Table: lime application dosages for different soil types

Note! Wood ash is an effective means of reducing the acidity of the earth. In addition to the effect of deoxidation, ash is a source of calcium, potassium, phosphorus and many trace elements.

Wood ash is used for liming the soil, as it contains 18–36% calcium carbonate in its composition.

Soil disinfection

So that efforts to grow strawberries are not nullified by diseases and pests, it is recommended to carry out a soil disinfection procedure when preparing a site for planting strawberries. It is especially important for closed beds, greenhouses and greenhouses, where comfortable conditions can be created not only for cultivated plants, but also for pathogens.

There are various ways to disinfect the soil:

• chemical;
• agrotechnical;
• biological.

Important! When planning a soil disinfection procedure, you should pay attention to those problems and diseases that are inherent in your weather conditions, type of site.

chemical method

The most cardinal method of disinfection is chemical. It reliably and quickly destroys pathogens. The disadvantage of the method is the concomitant destruction of beneficial microorganisms, so it should be used one-time and in the presence of complex problems. The following preparations are most acceptable for disinfecting the soil for planting strawberries:

• fungicide TMTD. For processing 1 sq. meters use 60 g of powder. The drug reliably destroys pathogens in the soil;
• copper sulfate. For tillage, 50 g of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water and the earth is spilled. The drug is effective for soil treatment in greenhouses and greenhouses. An overdose of the drug leads to the fact that the soil loses air permeability, the number of beneficial microorganisms decreases in it. Soil treatment with copper-containing preparations is recommended to be carried out no more than once every 5 years.

For soil treatment against fungal diseases, mold and some pests, a 0.5% - 1% solution of copper sulphate is used (50-100 g per 10 l of water)

biological method

The use of microbiological preparations gives many positive results:

• the number of pathogens in the soil is reduced;
• when growing on the site of the same crops, soil fatigue is observed. Biological fungicides are able to neutralize this phenomenon;
• the soil is populated with beneficial microflora.

The most effective biological fungicides for soil preparation for strawberries are:

• Phytosporin;
• Trichodermin;
• Alirin B;
• Baikal EM-1.

Biological fungicides are characterized by low toxicity and high efficiency.

Note! Biological and chemical preparations cannot be used simultaneously for soil disinfection. The minimum interval between applications should be at least 2 weeks.

Agricultural method

Properly organized agrotechnical measures help prevent the emergence and spread of diseases and pests, and maintain soil fertility. This can be helped by a properly organized crop rotation. The best predecessors for strawberries are:

• beet;
• beans;
• garlic;
• peas;
• Dill;
• parsley.

Harmful predecessors for garden strawberries are tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, zucchini and cucumbers. This is due to the fact that these crops have a number of common pests with strawberries, are susceptible to the same diseases, the pathogens of which infect the soil.

Green manures are green fertilizers specially grown to restore the soil after vegetation, enrich it with nitrogen and microelements and suppress weed growth.

For disinfection, heat treatment of the soil can be carried out by spilling it with boiling water or steaming it. This method is very effective, but due to the complexity of performing at home, it can be used to disinfect a small amount of soil (for example, for planting seedlings) or to disinfect a small ridge.

Note! Planting plants such as marigolds and marigolds on the ridges adjacent to strawberries helps to improve the condition of the soil and fight against pathogens.

Mulching strawberries

Mulching strawberry plantings not only protects the crop from pests, weeds and diseases, but also improves soil structure and increases its fertility. Mulch for culture can be various materials:

• hay, straw or grass are useful in that after they rot in the soil, active reproduction of hay bacillus occurs. This beneficial microorganism prevents the spread of fungal infections;
• black spunbond provides quick warming up of the soil, prevents drying and washing out, protects it from weeds. In order to prevent the soil from overheating on hot summer days, it is recommended to lay grass or straw on top of the agrofibre;
• needles, cones, twigs of coniferous trees, when rotting, nourish the soil, make it looser, and prevent the spread of a disease such as gray rot. It should be borne in mind that this mulch acidifies the soil, so it should be used with caution on soils prone to acidity;
• sawdust and shavings hold moisture well and prevent the development of weeds. But when decomposed, these materials acidify the soil, take nitrogen from it. Therefore, ridges with such a mulch cover need additional fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as regular application of ash or dolomite flour against soil acidification;
• mulch from humus and compost does not allow overheating, hypothermia, drying out, weathering and soil depletion. But a layer of mulch from these materials requires constant renewal, as it is quickly processed by soil microorganisms.

Photo gallery: mulching strawberries

Hay, straw must first be thoroughly shaken, dried in the sun, because there is a high probability of germination of weed seeds remaining in them

Agrofibre provides adjustment of the optimal amount of moisture in the soil, and also prevents the growth of weeds

Mulching strawberries with sawdust is beneficial in that this material is able to retain moisture for a long time and has a good effect on soil structure.

Rotting. needle mulch improves soil structure, nourishes it with useful substances

Humus ennobles any soil: in sandy soil it retains water and nutrients in the root zone, it helps to make heavy clay soil loose, airy, nutritious

Video: soil preparation for planting strawberries

In addition to the above procedures, we must not forget about the destruction of last year's plant residues, which may contain dangerous pathogens, about deep autumn digging of the soil with the cleaning of weed roots and found larvae, about recommendations for replacing the upper soil layer in greenhouses and greenhouses, because it is in it that harmful pathogens and organisms capable of causing infectious diseases. You can not spare time for high-quality soil preparation for planting strawberries. A high-quality crop grown will be a real reward for all the efforts and labors spent on creating favorable conditions for strawberries.

Soil composition

Below are various soil options and the possibility of growing strawberries in them, depending on the composition of the soil:

1. Humus soil is characterized by a high content of various organic compounds. This is achieved after the decomposition of manure or any kind of vegetation in the soil.
2. Soddy land, especially the loamy type, is also well suited for growing strawberries. It contains a sufficient amount of organic compounds, while it has a fairly low level of acidity. However, such soil is too heavy, so it is mandatory to add additives to it in the form of baking powder, this is its only drawback.
3. Sawdust is the most natural soil leavening agent and can be added to absolutely any soil if it has too heavy a structure. If they did not have time to overheat to the required condition, then it is recommended to pre-wet with urea.
4. The addition of coarse-grained river sand to the soil is another effective measure that allows you to loosen the soil well. However, its volumes should be insignificant and amount to no more than a tenth of all soil components. In addition, the sand must first undergo a heat treatment procedure, for this it can be placed in the oven. Such measures are necessary because it is often inhabited by bacteria or microorganisms that can have a detrimental effect on strawberries.
5. Adding peat to the composition of the soil will allow it to retain the necessary volumes of moisture, which will make the earth very close to ideal. However, this should not be abused, since peat contributes to the reproduction and maintenance of the vital activity of many organisms, the proximity to which can adversely affect the state of the cultivated crop. In addition, it increases the overall level of soil acidity, so it is recommended to add at least 1 cup of wood ash to a bucket of peat or add a few tablespoons of dolomite flour.
6. Adding vermiculite to the soil is not the most common practice, but it can be used in combination with soil fertilization with various complexes of slow-acting mineral dressings to increase their effectiveness.

Peat for strawberries

Strawberry leaves turn yellow: what to do

Peat is an organic type fertilizer, which is the decomposed remains of animals and plants. It contains nitrogen and sulfur, which benefit any crop. For strawberries, this component is required only when grown on sandy and clay soils.

The use of peat for garden strawberries is possible both in autumn and in spring. In its pure form, the product is used only for mulching. It must first be aired and mixed with sawdust. To reduce acidity, wood ash must be added to the mixture. When introducing peat into the soil, you will need to make compost. To do this, you need to make a compost heap, where you alternate layers of matter with manure. You can supplement the composition with green mass and kitchen waste. From time to time, a pile should be watered with a superphosphate solution.

Peat for strawberries

Ready-made peat compost can fertilize strawberries in two ways:

• During planting, put a layer 5 cm high in the prepared holes.
• In the process of tillage, scatter the mixture (30 kg per 1 m2) and dig.

Advice! If it is not possible to improve the composition of the land for strawberries with peat compost, you can purchase peat-based products in specialized stores.

Thanks to peat fertilizer, the soil structure is significantly improved, the growth of strawberries and the root system is activated, and the number of berries increases.

The number and types of dressings

Their appearance depends on what soil is chosen for planting:

1. Loamy. You can make a mixture of humus and compost, or replace such fertilizers with nitroammophos.
2. Sandy. For 1 square meter, 2.5 buckets of humus or manure are enough.
3. Sod. It is better to fertilize with sawdust.
4. Heavy clay. Fertilize with a mixture of manure and river sand.
5. Soils with low acidity. Make dolomite flour, ash or limestone flour.
6. Alkaline. Peat and rotted fallen leaves are well suited.

At the same time, it must be applied before digging the soil, so that it mixes well with the ground. But it all depends on the level of soil fertility. A mandatory procedure is the complete removal of weeds and residues of the last crop from the selected area. On the day of disembarkation, carry out loosening. It is better to start general soil preparation 4-6 weeks before the intended planting.

Soil mulching

Mulching strawberry beds is a prerequisite for growing a good crop of berries. It is necessary in order to:

As a mulching material use:

• straw or cut grass;
• black agrofibre;
• coniferous litter or twigs of coniferous trees;
• shavings and sawdust;
• manure and compost.

Photo gallery: mulching strawberry beds

When straw or cut grass rots, hay stick develops, which kills fungal infections.

Agrofibre protects the soil from drying out and weeds

The needles increase the acidity of the soil, so use it with caution on acidic soils.

Decayed shavings and sawdust acidify the soil, so you need to periodically add ash or dolomite flour

Humus or compost as mulch requires frequent updating, as it is quickly processed by microorganisms

plant care

How to properly care for strawberries?

• The most important work in the care of strawberries is weeding and here, planting in a solid carpet is in the best position. They are less clogged with perennial weeds, such as couch grass, large, because they are more often dug up. At the very beginning of spring, before the appearance of green leaves, we carefully clean the plantation from dried leaves. We burn the rest of the plants. Sprinkle the exposed roots of plants with earth, compressing it around the plants.
• Early loosening of the soil causes rapid growth of strawberries, increases yield by 30-40%. But blooming early, strawberries can fall under late frosts. So with very early loosening, you will have to take care of covering the plantation with a film.
• If it is not possible to cover the entire surface, then on part of it, delay the development of plants by late loosening. This somewhat reduces the yield of berries, but prevents the plantation from late frosts.

Familiarization with the peculiarities of the neighborhood of strawberries with various plants and other cultivated crops is one of the initial stages of preparation, which starts at least a year before planting.

There are biological, agrotechnical and chemical methods of neutralization. The biological method allows not only to neutralize pathogenic microorganisms, but also not to harm the beneficial microflora. Various preparations are used: Fitolavin-300; "Acrobat-MC".

Strawberries grow well and give abundant harvests after legumes, beets, dill, garlic.

Seedling preparation

As planting material, both material purchased in a special nursery and material collected at home are suitable. A good healthy seedling has at least 3 healthy leaves, and the average length of the roots is about 10 cm.

In case some roots are very long, they can be trimmed. In order for the bush to take root quickly and be less susceptible to damage by pests and diseases, the roots of each plant, before planting, must be kept in a mixture of humus with soil, to which water and growth stimulants are added: Epin or Mikras.

So, we chose a place for planting strawberries, prepared the soil in advance.

Now let's decide what varieties we will plant. First of all, try to choose local, zoned strawberry varieties that have already shown themselves in your climatic conditions.

In order to have these magnificent fragrant berries on your table for as long as possible, I advise you to purchase a few seedlings of early ripening (10%), medium early and medium more (60%), as well as varieties of late ripening (30%).

Do not forget to plant remontant varieties, both wild strawberries and garden strawberries. And then you will have berries from spring until frost.

We buy seedlings

Pay great attention to the quality of planting material, because this is the basis of all your future crops.

Of course, it is best to purchase seedlings in proven nurseries, where they will be strong and healthy.

It is advisable not to buy on the market or from strangers, as there is a risk of acquiring weakened, infected plants or even seedlings of weed strawberry varieties, which we talked about in a previous article.

What should you first of all pay attention to when buying strawberry seedlings:

• These should be stocky annuals with a rosette of 3-5 leaves.
• The root system is well developed and not shorter than 5 cm.
• The apical bud (heart) is strong and well developed.
• The diameter of the horn is at least 1.5 cm.
• Seedlings should not be elongated, overgrown or, conversely, frail.

Usually we plant strawberry seedlings with one horn, but if you see two-horn seedlings on sale, then take it without hesitation, as you are incredibly lucky.

In order to save the family budget, you can not buy a large number of seedlings, but purchase several bushes of the varieties you like and propagate them yourself.

To do this, we plant the purchased seedlings in a specially designated small area (school) and surround them with care and attention.

We remove the flower stalks in time, carefully lay out the appearing mustache lashes and help the small rosettes to take root in the soil, making holes for them and watering.

Thus, we can get up to 40-50 seedlings from each mother plant.

If you are not planting garden strawberries for the first time and you already have a plantation of this berry, then you can already use your planting material for new plantings.

While picking berries, take into account the strongest and most productive bushes (not older than 2 years) with berries of approximately the same size and without any diseases.

From them, then we will subsequently take a mustache for laying a new plot of garden strawberries. Whiskers usually begin to grow in mid-summer.

When our marked bushes bear fruit, the process of mustache formation and rosette rooting will begin.

Here it is necessary, without delay, to select the most powerful sockets of the first order (in extreme cases, the second).

From sockets of the following orders, as a rule, already weaker bushes grow. Keep in mind that young plants give whiskers a little earlier than fruiting ones.

Attention! Another nuance in the selection of outlets for planting. It turns out that not all young strawberry rosettes are able to bear fruit. Conventionally, they can be divided into "girls" and "boys".

So, “girls” usually give an excellent harvest, but “boys” will leave you without it. Such bushes give a lot of whiskers, intertwining the entire garden bed, if they are not cut in time.

How to distinguish where who is? Firstly, for planting, it takes only the outlet closest to the mother bush; secondly - “girls differ from“ boys ”by a more powerful rosette of leaves.

But it is much easier to separate the "boys" from the "girls" during spring planting. In the spring, all "males" have only two leaves, while the "girls" have three.

If large-fruited garden strawberries are best propagated with a mustache, then seedlings of small-fruited remontant strawberries can be perfectly grown from seeds.

And although this is a rather laborious and troublesome process, the result is worth the effort and time.

Usually strawberry seeds are sown in March. If you want to get berries already this year, then it is better to sow early - in early February.

This, of course, will create additional troubles: the creation of the desired temperature regime, additional lighting, the construction of shelters during the early planting of seedlings.

We sow the seeds in boxes about 8 cm high, which we fill with loose soil. We level the soil, water it and scatter seeds on its surface.

Strawberry seeds are very small, so you can not sprinkle them with earth from above, but sprinkle them lightly with water from a spray bottle and they will be “drawn” into the ground a little. This will be enough for them to germinate.

Or you can carefully sprinkle them on top with sand through a sieve, about 1 mm.

After sowing, we close the boxes with film or glass, put them in a warm dark place and wait for seedlings.

Seeds can germinate (depending on the variety) after 10 days, and after 30, or even after 45 days. Therefore, we must be patient and not fall into despair when the seeds do not sprout for a long time.

For planting strawberry seeds, you can also use plastic boxes with lids.

When 2-3 true leaves appear, we proceed to seating the plants in separate pots.

If you are not in a hurry to get berries as early as possible, then perhaps the most favorable period for sowing strawberry seeds comes from early May to late June.

By planting the seeds within these terms, we will get excellent seedlings in the first year without much hassle.

I plan to describe all the methods of propagation of our beloved strawberries in more detail in a separate article.

The composition of the earth

Strawberries are not picky plants. However, when planting, pay special attention to the soil in which you intend to plant it.

Strawberries do not tolerate acidic, brackish and calcareous soils. It can grow in any soil, but loamy and sandy soils are especially optimal for its growth. Complex fertilizers are applied to such soils to saturate them with the minerals necessary for growth.

Basic Mistakes

1. Applying too much peat. Of course, it is useful for this plant, but should only be used in moderation to maintain water balance. Otherwise, uncontrolled reproduction of microorganisms and a change in the chemical composition will begin in the soil, which will deprive the crop or lead to the complete death of the culture.
2. Growing in clay soil. It is better to find other places for planting strawberries, since such land is very difficult to ennoble even artificially, this is one of the most unfortunate options.
3. Adding excess sand. This procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the established dosages, otherwise the root system will be subject to constant drying and overheating, and it is the most vulnerable part of the plant.

Unsuitable soil for berries

The soil for the plant should be chosen as carefully as possible. The worst options for her are sand or clay. It is too scarce in terms of the availability of nutrients. In addition, the soil is not suitable for planting strawberries of the following types:

1. alkaline or acid;
2. soil on peat or sod-podzolic variant;
3. if there is a gray tint.

Due to the lack of nutrients, the berry will not fully develop in such soil. The berry does not like acidic soil because of the special composition that is harmful to the root system. Despite the fact that, according to gardeners, chernozem is considered the most nutritious soil, there are a number of other criteria for choosing soil.

For example, the soil for garden strawberries may differ by several units from the required one. In this case, the composition can be artificially adjusted.

Landing Rules

To speed up the process of rooting the culture, it is recommended to plant strawberries in the evening, or at other times, waiting for a cloudy day. For planting, dig a furrow, which is dug under a stretched rope. The gap between the grooves should be at least 65 and not more than 85 cm (it all depends on the variety). Between the plants themselves - about 20 cm.

If your own planting material is used during planting, then it must be healthy, use bushes no older than 2-3 years, from which they distinguished themselves in the previous year with a high yield. To obtain high-quality planting material, it is recommended to remove flower stalks, because gardeners insist that in the same season you can get either a rich harvest or high-quality healthy seedlings from a strawberry bush.

In order to get planting material, you need to dig the first rosettes on strawberry mustaches into cups. It is from the first rosettes that you will get strong and healthy plants. By correctly calculating the time of planting, you can get ready-made seedlings in cups, when planting, you will only need to remove the extra leaves (there should not be more than 3-4). Planting bushes is carried out by the method already described.

Every 3-4 years it is worth renovating strawberry plantations, since this is the most optimal period, after which yields decline sharply. And it is very easy to grow young seedlings on your own.

Gardeners prefer this method because of the low cost, which will help to increase the yield of berries by almost half. Agrofibre is often used when planting in the northern regions, where winters are long and frosts are frequent.

Dosages of fertilizers

The dosage table will help you navigate a difficult set of recommendations:

• Sandy and sandy loamy 1.5 kg. per 10 m2
• Clay and loamy 14 kg. per 10 m2

If it is necessary to reduce the acidity, then wood ash can be used. It is not recommended to use an alkaline medium, because it can be detrimental to plants, therefore, in addition to deoxidation, ash is a source of phosphorus, calcium and other vitamins.

These tips will help you properly prepare the ground for planting. And also understand what kind of soil strawberries love.

1. It is recommended to take the soil from the site for analysis in order to establish the level of its acidity. This will allow you to choose the right fertilizers, since it is quite easy to change the chemical composition of both acidic and alkaline soils.
2. When growing in a swampy place or with a shallow groundwater, it is necessary to build sufficiently high ridges or hills on which this crop will grow.
3. To effectively get rid of weeds at the preparation stage, it is necessary to use herbicides or pull a black film over the bed, a few weeks will be enough to completely destroy all unnecessary plants.

Experienced gardeners know that different crops can change the condition of the land. Therefore, it is important to choose the right landing site, taking into account this factor. Land for strawberries can be selected only after planting certain plants. Strawberries will feel most comfortable in the beds if the following types of crops grew on it:

1. radish or legume family;
2. mustard or garlic;
3. greens in any form or lettuce leaves.

With the help of early plants of the above type, you can sufficiently prepare the soil for strawberries. Therefore, when wondering what kind of soil strawberries like, it is worth knowing the plants that negatively affect the soil. First of all, these are pumpkin and nightshade, it is not recommended to plant strawberries under them..

plant care

Strawberry growing tips: soil preparation, watering, planting and care

The most common berry crop in our gardens is strawberries. It also causes the most controversy because of the methods of breaking up plantations. I will give several ways to bookmark plantations.

The main task of gardeners when planting is to provide all the necessary conditions for rapid rooting. Proper care is needed to get a healthy plant.

The first half a month after planting in open ground, strawberry seedlings require regular abundant watering at least 2 times a week. This event is held in the absence of rain. After making sure that the young rosettes are rooted, watering is gradually reduced. But the soil should not dry out. Watering is best done in the morning and use settled water.

top dressing

Strawberries are very fond of additional top dressing, but in the fall, after planting, fertilizers will not be appropriate (except for top dressing the soil before planting). Already in the spring, young plants are watered several times with mullein infusion.

Mulching

It will not be needed if the strawberries are planted under agrofibre. Otherwise, mulching is carried out after planting, using humus or peat for this. Sawdust, needles and cones can be considered an ideal organic mulching agent, which will not only protect strawberries from various damages, but also become a mineral complex.

pruning

Pruning in the fall, immediately after planting, young leaves is impractical. The exception is cases when, after transplantation, a large number of mustaches or peduncles are formed. If this is not done in a timely manner, they will simply draw all the strength out of the young plant.

In order for the top layer of soil near the newly planted bushes not to become a "home" for pests, it must be processed in a timely manner. During this period, even the use of chemicals is allowed, since harvesting is not foreseen for the next six months.

Gardeners consider Karbofos to be one of the most popular drugs. The solution is very easy to use: warm up to at least 32 ° C and water the selected area, before carrying out high-quality loosening of the soil. For the best effect, create a greenhouse effect - cover the treated area with a film for 2-3 hours.

Fungicides and preparations that contain copper can be used to prevent strawberry pathogens that may appear in the spring.

Perlite for strawberries

Perlite is a volcanic rock formed by hydration. To obtain a porous material used in agricultural technology, the rock is heated. Then crushed and already used for growing various crops.

The material significantly improves the structure of the soil, retains moisture and prevents the formation of a crust on the soil surface. The use of additives can be directed to different purposes:

• coarse fraction is used as a drainage;
• covering the topsoil prevents mold;
• storage of bulbs and tubers;
• good material for seed germination.

As you know, not only open ground is used to grow strawberries. You can do this in a greenhouse and at home, where a pot is used instead of the usual beds. Recently, the Dutch method of growing strawberries has become popular. This method allows you to harvest all year round, does not require special investments and has many more advantages.

Perlite for strawberries

For cultivation, plastic bags or plastic containers are used, which are filled with perlite mixed with peat. Such a composition absorbs moisture and gives it away only when necessary. The bags are placed on the racks of the greenhouse with an interval of 50 cm.

In addition, perlite is good to add to the soil for growing at home. It is also important to decide what land is needed for strawberries. It is advisable to make the composition yourself, using forest soil, high-moor peat, perlite, humus and fine sand.

Note! To grow strawberry seedlings at home, you should not take land from the garden, as it may be initially infected with a nematode.

Growing strawberries: planting methods

We plant strawberries as early as possible, as soon as we manage to get the first seedlings, that is, in mid-July. A berry planted at this time will give a harvest the next year.

Single line strawberry planting

• With this method, the distance between rows is 70 cm, between plants in a row from 15 to 30 cm
• In the second half of summer, we move the mustache from the row spacing on the plantings of young strawberries into rows with a rake - this contributes to the expansion and thickening of the rows with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide
• On the site of fruit-bearing strawberries, we remove the mustache as they appear

Formation of strawberry plantation in 2 rows

• The distance between the lines with such a landing is 30-40 cm, the next two lines are planted after 70 cm
• In waterlogged areas, strawberries should be grown in beds 15-20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide. On such beds we make two rows of plants at a distance of 40-50 cm

How to plant strawberries with a solid carpet?

• With this method, mother plants are planted after 1-1.2 m
• Newly growing plants fill the entire space
• On such plantations, we leave narrow paths for harvesting and caring for the berry plantation.
• This planting allows you to get a crop within 2 years.
• After that, we transplant the plantation

This method is in high demand. Why is he good? It allows you to get the largest yields of berries, but relatively small ones. However, a decrease in the size of the fruits does not affect their taste, but even improves them somewhat. Even in the leanest years for strawberries, a good harvest always ripens. .

What else do you need to know?

When preparing the beds in the fall, add 8 kg of compost or manure, potassium salt (25 g), superphosphate (60 g) and potassium chloride (15 g) to the soil.

If you prepare the soil just a week before planting, add 6 kg of humus or 8 kg of rotted compost to it, as well as 25 g of potassium sulfate. The values ​​provided are calculated per square meter of soil.

Whatever the soil, in order to grow strong plants, be sure to add ashes to the soil a couple of weeks before planting. It will become both an additional fertilizer and disinfect the earth. The fruits are pure and of high quality and pure. Before planting, spill the bed with water - a bucket for every square meter.

Preparing for winter

Young, only transplanted plants, which have not yet strengthened the root system, especially need to be prepared for the winter period. To protect plants from freezing, the top of the soil should be mulched with a layer of straw or fallen leaves. You can also replace them with corn stalks, sawdust, spruce branches, or peat.

Watering is carried out with a special nutrient solution by drip. At the same time, seedlings are planted not only in open soil, but also in special small pots.

Plants should not be planted closer than 20 cm apart. When grown in this way, constant moderate watering and good drainage are considered a prerequisite.

Providing a family with a rich harvest of strawberries from your garden is very simple - you just need to follow the simple rules for planting and caring for berry bushes.

DIY flowerbeds and beds for strawberries

When planting strawberries in the garden, a single-line or multi-line planting scheme is used. Vigorous bushes are planted from each other at a distance of 35-40 cm, undersized varieties - 20 cm. Row spacing is wide - 70 cm.

You can plant strawberries on beautifully designed ridges. Due to space savings, longline beds are practiced. Consider the device of some of them.

Tiered beds made of stone

Tiered beds of stone can be made in any shape:

• round;
• square;
• triangular;
• rectangular.

It is good to grow ampel varieties of strawberries on longline beds. First of all, during the construction of the ridge, the site is leveled. Preparation of natural stone:

• limestone;
• sandstone;
• diabase.

On the ground, they make markings for the future ridge. Dig a trench 30-40 cm deep around the perimeter. It is filled 2/3 of the height with rubble, 1/3 with sand, rammed. Lay out a wall of natural stone. Use cement mortar for bonding or use dry laying technology.

Mark the contours of 2 and 3 tiers. Each subsequent one must be narrower than the previous one. Lay out the walls for the 2nd and 3rd tiers. The height of each subsequent tier should be higher than the previous one.

Fill the ridge with fertile soil after the cement has dried. You can plant strawberries. The advantage of this ridge:

• decorative look ridges, can serve as a garden decoration;
• good drainage;
• the ridge is filled with clean, fertile soil, which reduces the chance of disease;
• for strawberries easy to care for.

It will take time to build a ridge. Its manufacture is quite laborious.

Tiered beds made of wooden planks

A simple solution is a square, multi-tiered bed of wooden boards. For its manufacture, planed, edged pine boards with a section of 30 × 140 mm are needed.. To connect the corners - bars 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

Mark out the dimensions of the first tier. Assemble the bottom box. The boards in the corners are fixed to the bars with self-tapping screws. The entire area of ​​the first tier is filled with fertile soil and rammed. The following boxes are made similarly, but smaller. Width for landing must be at least 35 cm.

Advantages of flowerbed design:

• saving places;
• receipt per unit area more harvest;
• strawberries suffer less from infections and pests;
• multi-tiered ridge of boards - decorative garden element.

Disadvantages of the tiered planting method:

• in cold climates needs shelter for the winter;
• in the heat need frequent watering, the earth dries up quickly.

Beds from tires

Is it possible on an area of ​​​​1.2 square meters. m of your garden plot to plant 120 strawberry bushes? It turns out you can. For the construction of such a vertical ridge you will need old tires 8 pcs and a plastic pipe with holes made in it for irrigation (diameter 5.5 mm).

The diameter of the pipe must match the diameter of the irrigation hose or adapter. Prepare fertile land. Choose a sunny location.

In each tire, cut from 12 to 16 holes 6 × 10 cm in size along the circumference. Tires stacked alternately on top of each other.

Plant strawberry bushes in the holes of the tires. Cover the roots tightly with soil. Pour through slots. Install the pipe in the center. Its height should be slightly more than the height of the ridge. Put a water hose on the pipe.

The advantages of such a ridge:

• saving places;
• absence weeds;
• convenient to water and care;
• berries are clean, do not get sick.

There are also disadvantages. So that strawberries do not freeze in winter, you will have to pack the ridge in several layers (straw, reeds, insulation).

Slate beds

The slate remaining after construction can be used to build a ridge for strawberries. If there is a polycarbonate greenhouse - solve two problems at once:

• insulate greenhouse around the perimeter;
• build comfortable bed.

Dig a trench in the ground. Its depth is 25-35 cm. Cut slate 70 cm high. Throw cut branches at the bottom of the trench, pour plant remains. You can add wood ash there. Fill the ridge with fertile soil, consisting of garden soil, humus, peat, sand.

The advantages of such a ridge:

• convenient to water and care for strawberries;
• moisture is well preserved in the soil;
• spring earth warms up quickly.

Slate fencing is classified as a low-environmental structure. Its appearance is not aesthetic.

Watering

Soil moisture is paramount when planting strawberries. During the planting of bushes, the earth should be close to the absolute value of humidity, but at the same time moisture permeable. This level can be reached by daily watering. The best alternative is the drip irrigation method, which significantly simplifies the irrigation process.

During the period when the leaves of the plant are actively growing, the moisture rate decreases to a fair extent, but does not stop.

An important point is to prevent the soil from drying out and its excessive moisture.

Overdried soil will lead to a poor harvest, and an excess of water will lead to the development of pathogens.

It is recommended to control the level of soil moisture throughout the entire period of growth and development of strawberries. To do this, you can use moisture meters to accurately measure the water level.

If the ground is excessively wet, it is wise to make drainage.

Common problems with autumn planting

1. an incorrectly chosen site can cause damage to the bushes by pests and diseases, as well as poor yields;
2. an excess of moisture can provoke damage to the bushes by a fungus or rotting of the root system. if you do not take care of sheltering or mulching strawberries in a timely manner, plants can be destroyed by unexpected first frosts.

Watering sockets should be carried out only under the root. Water should not fall on the leaves and, moreover, linger on them. If droplets of water remain on the leaf plates during sunrise, then places from burns appear in their place.

Secrets of experienced gardeners

Loose loams or sandy loams suitable for strawberries are rarely present on the site already in finished form. But if you do a few manipulations, then it is quite possible to get such soil for planting strawberries. For this you need:

• cut down the top layer of podzolic forest soils about 8 cm thick;
• fold the layers in several layers to a height of up to 1 m and a width of up to 80 cm and pour each layer with plenty of water;
• cover the collar with polyethylene, leaving small "windows" for the inflow of fresh air;
• under such conditions, the temperature in the pile increases greatly and the burnout of all plant residues, pathogenic microbes and fungi, insect pest larvae begins;
• after 2-3 months, as a result of the organic “burning” process, soil is obtained that is most suitable in terms of its structure and mineral composition for growing garden strawberries.

How to properly prepare the soil

• The right decision would be to start preparing the site for future plantings in the autumn, since after winter the soil will be saturated with moisture and it will just remain to be loosened properly with a pitchfork. This option is also good because it reduces the amount of necessary spring work in the garden.
• Digging the soil under the plantation, you should carefully remove all weeds and even their roots remaining in the ground. It is necessary to dig the beds deep (on the bayonet of a shovel), then in winter most of the pathogenic microorganisms and insect larvae will die from low temperatures (freeze).
• The previously prepared soil will have time to settle properly before planting. Then the roots of the planted young bushes will not become bare over time, which negatively affects the further development of plants.
• Proper moisture plays an essential role in soil preparation and further cultivation of garden strawberries. The difficulty lies in the fact that strawberries require a sufficiently large amount of water and at the same time do not tolerate waterlogging. Before planting plants, the prepared bed should be watered abundantly for several days, but moisture should not be allowed to stagnate.
• Young plantings of strawberries must be mulched with peat or humus. Coniferous litter is perfect for these purposes. Any mulch serves several purposes at once: it protects the soil from drying out, is an additional source of nutrients and protects the root system of plants from freezing in winter.

Soil composition for strawberries

According to gardeners, the most optimal soil composition for such an unpretentious plant is humus. It is in it that contains the largest amount of organic matter, so necessary for the full development and growth of culture. It is obtained by the decomposition of natural humus and vegetation residues. That is why the creation of such soil by hand is within the power of even beginners in plant care.

In the absence of pets, the soil for garden strawberries is suitable for a soddy look. This type of land does not have a sufficient indicator of acidity, so you can balance the soil with a natural baking powder. The solution to the question of how to prepare such a baking powder lies in the sawdust, which is thoroughly moistened with urea. But in this case, it is important to observe the proportions: 1 part of sawdust to 10 parts of soil.

But peat is controversial. Some gardeners say that planting on peat soil will help improve the quality of the crop. Others are of the opinion that the composition of the soil for strawberries is not suitable for strawberries due to an inappropriate level of acidity.

You can prepare the soil for planting with the help of the following popular additions:

1. humus of natural origin;
2. turf;
3. peat soil with natural additions;
4. wood sawdust.

These components are taken in equal proportions, thoroughly mixed and sprinkled on the selected area.

Additional features of soil preparation

Recently, many gardeners began to grow berries using non-standard methods. They require special soil preparation. Planting berries in pots or bags is becoming not only fashionable, but also practical, especially for residents of big cities. For example, for planting in pots, containers or pipes, the soil will be the same, but the additives are different:

• The first step is to consider the method of planting in bags. Instead of perlite, gardeners recommend adding a fertilizer called vermiculite. This method will allow you to save the right amount of moisture and fine-type sawdust with your own hands.
• The composition of the soil for planting in pipes implies the presence of 10% sand of the total volume of soil. Also, 10 grams of woody ash will not hurt, its main task is to prevent strawberry rotting.

Planting strawberries in the photo

When choosing a place for planting strawberries on a site where the culture will be comfortable, its biological characteristics are taken into account. First of all, we recall that strawberries are very photophilous. The quantity and quality of strawberries is directly proportional to the amount of solar energy received by plants. For this reason, we choose the sunniest place for planting strawberry seedlings in spring. The duration of illumination of the berry with direct sunlight should be at least 8-10 hours a day. Even with a slight shading, all varieties experience a delay in the timing of flowering and ripening of berries by 7-10 days, the overall yield is greatly reduced and, most importantly, the taste of berries deteriorates sharply. The fruits become more watery and sour. Yield losses from gray mold in shaded areas increase, and the leaves are more susceptible to all kinds of fungal infections.

In places with light openwork shading - under the crowns of adult fruit trees - for the effective use of the area, only small-fruited strawberries can be planted. In this crop, the decrease in yield from shading is the least noticeable.

The second, which in no case should be forgotten, is that strawberries are a very demanding crop in terms of soil fertility. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting strawberry seedlings in the spring, we allocate the most fertile areas for it.

Be sure to pay attention to the mechanical composition of the soil and the water regime. According to the mechanical composition of the soil, the best option for planting strawberries and strawberries is light loam. In areas with heavy clay soils and in damp lowlands with stagnant moisture in the autumn-winter period, strawberries grow very poorly. The root system rots, leaves, and berries are severely damaged by fungal diseases. Unsuitable for strawberries are areas with a groundwater table closer than 1 meter.

Subject to regular watering and top dressing, strawberries feel good on soils with a high sand content. But southern slopes with light soils and elevated areas are still not the best option. In winter, on slopes, especially steep ones, strawberries can freeze a lot due to the fact that snow blows off the plantings. In dry years, which have become more frequent in recent years, plants will suffer from overheating and lack of moisture. In this case, it is necessary to foresee the possibility of irrigation.

Video: How to plant strawberries in spring

What kind of soil do strawberries like - acidic or alkaline?

The acidity of the soil will determine how well the culture will develop, whether it will be susceptible to diseases, whether there is enough nutrition for full maturation.

A small comparison of indicators will help determine which soils are preferable for strawberries:

• pH 3-4- strongly acidic soil, in which the content of nitrogen, potassium, boron and phosphorus is negligible. And these are the substances that are needed throughout the growing season. In such soil, there is an increased content of aluminum, iron, manganese. An excess of these minerals reduces the ability of the cells of the root system to absorb the already meager nutrition;
• pH 7-8- weakly alkaline soil is characterized by a lack of phosphorus, but if it is constantly replenished with top dressing, then there is a lack of zinc and copper, which leads to chlorosis;
• pH 8-9- increased alkaline reaction is characterized by a lack of nitrogen and phosphorus, an excess of copper, manganese, zinc. This factor slows down the development of the plant, leads to twisting of the foliage.

The conclusion suggests itself: for the good development of strawberries, a slightly acidic earth or with a neutral reaction is needed. In slightly acidic soils, the amount of necessary elements is close to the ideal composition (in a neutral environment it is optimal), with the help of top dressing, the culture receives everything it needs. In addition, in slightly acidic and neutral soil, the vital activity of beneficial microorganisms is best manifested. Ideal acidity parameters for berries are in the pH range of 5.5–6.5.

No less important is the structure of the land for strawberries and its carrying capacity. Loose sandstones and heavy clay soils are equally unsuitable. Nutritious chernozem with proper feeding, for example, mulching with needles, will become an ideal soil. But such lands are not everywhere.

Suitable in composition, "correct soil" are the following lands:

• sandy loam- quickly evaporates moisture, without forming a crust on the surface, perfectly passes air and water deep into, light;
• loamy- quite fertile, perfectly passes and retains moisture, loose, passes heat and air.

Is land digging necessary?

Many summer residents neglect digging beds with strawberries. As a result, the soil is too hard and the strawberries do not germinate. Only with this approach, it must be taken into account that the strawberry root system reaches a depth of about 30 cm. In order for the crop to be of better quality, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient supply of moisture and air. If digging is done without leveling the top layer of the bed, then frost will save the gardener and the berry from most of the larvae of small pests. The bed can be leveled even after a frosty period.

If the health of the summer resident is poor and it is not safe to use a shovel, you can replace it with a pitchfork. In most cases, turning over layers of earth is not as important as loosening it with high quality. If the soil is heavy, then digging the earth in the autumn season may be in vain. Literally after the first precipitation, such soil will become monolithic and the berry in it can suffocate. Therefore, before the digging process, in the case of peat soils, the following additions can be added directly to the garden bed:

1. sandy;
2. rotten sawdust;
3. sod.

With the help of these additions, it is possible to improve the quality of the soil in the area of ​​​​its fertility. You should also measure the levels of melt and groundwater. For strawberries, the higher the planting site, the better. Despite the love of berries for moisture in the summer, in the remaining months you should not overdo it with liquid.

It is worth remembering that the roots of the berry react instantly to changes in moisture and the system begins to rot already on the second day with its excess. If, due to climatic or other characteristics, strawberries do not have to be grown in the best conditions, a special drainage layer can be formed. It contributes to the withdrawal of melt water and lowering the water level.

Landing green manure

Before planting strawberries, you can prepare the soil by planting green manure. These are plants that can enrich the soil with nutrients. You can plant them in summer or autumn, and remove them after flowering begins. The stems and leaves of plants serve as compost to improve soil composition.

The following siderates are most effective:

Optimal site selection

For the successful cultivation of garden strawberries (or strawberries), several rules should be followed for choosing a site.

• The most successful place for planting berries is a sunny and draft-protected area with loose, water- and breathable soil.
• It is unacceptable to have a plantation in a lowland with close groundwater. Excessive moisture and stagnant water will certainly lead to rotting of the roots and death of plantings.
• Heavy clay soils, which have poor drainage capacity, are not suitable for strawberries. It is better to choose areas with sandy loam or loam.
• Garden strawberries love a large amount of organic matter, but the humus content above 3% is undesirable for it.
• Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soils with a pH level ranging from 5.5 to 6.5 for full development.
• Despite the negative attitude towards stagnant water, the culture does not tolerate drought well and requires constantly high soil moisture, which is achieved by regular abundant watering, especially during the formation of berries.
• Best of all, garden strawberries grow after cereals, but nightshade and cabbage are not the most suitable predecessors for berries, since after them many pathogens of dangerous diseases and insect pests remain in the soil.
• Do not grow garden strawberries in one place for more than four or five years, otherwise the quality and quantity of berries will only deteriorate over time.
• The introduction of the main amount of all necessary substances and fertilizers should be carried out immediately when preparing the beds. Subsequently, it will be very difficult to radically improve the structure and fertility of the soil - you will have to limit yourself to only supporting top dressing.

First of all, when preparing the land before planting, it is important to inspect the site and determine the type of soil according to the previously indicated signs. It is also important to prepare the soil for strawberries by taking into account predecessors. Previously growing plants on the ground affect its composition. Greens, beets, carrots, and peas are directly considered the best predecessors for strawberries.

Preparing the soil for planting strawberries in the fall should include taking into account the characteristics of the land after the listed crops. Such types of predecessors as pumpkin and nightshade are undesirable.

The beds are prepared for planting in autumn after the main crop is harvested after suitable plants. Before planting strawberries, weeds must be removed first. For example, peat soil requires 20 kg of sand. Also, a mixture of organic matter and lime must be added to the ground.

Mineral fertilizers

In autumn, when planting strawberries, mineral fertilizers based on nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium can be applied to the soil. When working with mineral fertilizers, the prescribed dosages must be strictly observed. Substances are applied in dry or dissolved form.

Strawberries are fertilized in autumn with ammonium sulfate, which looks like small white crystals. The substance is highly soluble in water. Before digging the soil, dry ammonium sulfate is scattered on its surface. For each square meter, 40 g of this substance is enough.

Important! Ammonium sulfate is absorbed by the root system and helps strawberries grow green mass.

After planting strawberries in the fall, the last dressing is done at the end of October. During this period, potassium humate is used. This fertilizer is of organic origin and allows you to increase the yield of strawberries, stimulate their growth and strengthen the immunity of plants.

In autumn, superphosphate is introduced into the soil, which takes a long time to dissolve in the soil. 1 g of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water, after which the soil is watered between rows with strawberries.

What and how to lime the soil

Liming is the only way to fix acidic soil. Its meaning is that alkaline ions of liming substances neutralize hydrogen ions, reducing their total number. In agricultural practice, they use:

• slaked lime;
• ground limestone;
• dolomite flour;
• marl.

These are all rocks with a high content of carbonates, often yellowish in color. They are relatively soft, easily ground into powder and dosed. The powder is evenly scattered over the dug up soil and thoroughly mixed with it with a rake.

Acidic soil is not a sentence, but a challenge to the gardener. Having determined the degree of neglect of the problem and having mastered the technology of liming the plot, it is possible to create optimal soil for strawberries that are generous in fruit.

Soil acidity

The acidity of the soil is determined by the sign of pH. And for strawberries, this indicator is at the level of 6, which indicates a slightly acidic environment close to neutral.

The increased acidity of the site is dangerous, since aluminum ions can inhibit the root system of the plant, preventing it from developing properly.

Increased acidity is determined by the presence in the garden area:

• weeds such as woodlice, sedge, horsetails;
• red-brown raids on stones, paths;
• rusty tint on the surface of the earth.

It will help determine the pH level and litmus paper. It is lowered into a container of water, in which there is a bundle of soil. If the indicator turns yellow or red, then the soil in the area is acidic. From blue to cyan - neutral-alkaline.

Correction of the soil condition begins with liming the beds. Powder of slaked lime or dolomite flour is scattered evenly over the area under the strawberries, mixing with the soil with a rake. And you can increase the acidity with peat, gypsum.

Achieving an appropriate pH is essential for the plant to feel comfortable and give excellent yields.

How to correct soil characteristics

It happens that the site is not suitable for planting berries. In this case, it is not worth giving up strawberries completely. In this situation, artificial adjustment of the composition according to the recommendations with your own hands helps:

1. Some gardeners use sandy soils for planting strawberries. It is possible to plant strawberries in this type of soil after making humus. The best fertilizer is manure from a cow or any kind of poultry. In this form, the soil for strawberries will become suitable for planting.
2. Another option is reduced or, conversely, increased acidity. At home, it is possible to stabilize acidity indicators. Limestone or organic additions contribute to a decrease in acidity. Gypsum or mineral fertilizers will help to increase the rate.
3. Soil that contains excess moisture is unacceptable. The earth should be moderately moist. For this reason, gardeners do not recommend planting berries in the lowlands. After all, a large amount of water accumulates there.

Knowing how to update the composition of the soil for strawberries in different situations, a number of the following questions should be analyzed. It is these recommendations that will help not only improve the composition of the soil, but also understand what soil acidity is suitable for strawberries.

If there is not enough space for planting berries, you should know the following recommendations:

• If there is no place other than a lowland, the land for strawberries should be located at the highest point.
• If the land is only unpaved, you can improve the nutritional value with humus or cleaned sand.
• There should be a gutter in the lowlands so that the water does not flood the new seedlings.

Strawberries are an unpretentious berry. Therefore, it can easily grow on flat areas with a slight slope. Ideally, if it is directed to the southwest. The soil for strawberries in this case will be ideal, because it is under the sun's rays.

What is meant by acidity

Soil is not just clods of fertile soil, it is a complex complex of chemical compounds. They enter into a variety of reactions, and also help or, conversely, prevent plant roots from absorbing water and nutrition. Being in groundwater, some of these compounds split off hydrogen ions from themselves, and the more of them, the higher the acidity.

pH is used to denote acidity. The acidity scale provides numbers from 1 to 7, while the seven indicate a neutral environment, and everything above is already an indicator of alkaline soils. For strawberries, strawberries, and most horticultural crops, with the exception of heathers, soil with a slightly acidic reaction is ideal, in other words, with a pH of about 5.5-6.0.

On soils with an acidity index below 5 (strongly acidic), aluminum ions are released in the fertile horizon, which, in fact, inhibits the root system of strawberries and strawberries.

Before planting, the bed must be carefully treated for weeds. Because standard weeding techniques often do not work. There are perennial weed plants that are much more difficult to weed out. Tips from experienced gardeners will help get rid of weeds, both perennial and simpler ones:

1. Weeding the beds must be carried out immediately after the last snow melts;
2. For a week and a half, the bed should be covered with black non-woven material. If there is none, you can use agrofiber or roofing material;
3. Then remove the shelter after the specified period;
4. Shoots that appear after, cut off with a flat cutter or with a hand cultivator.

This procedure is relevant for spring harvesting strawberry beds. If harvesting is of the autumn type, the shelter should not be removed until August. Or you will have to constantly manually cut the weeds of the same year. This option is ideal for gardeners who are not supporters of organic farming.

With the help of these tips, you can choose the right land for planting strawberries, as well as learn how to care for it. As a result, the berry will thank the gardener with a quality harvest.