Textile business: production of textiles from A to Z. Russian textile industry. Modern technologies in textile production Technology and equipment for textile production

This section presents theoretical materials on the technology of textile production.

Preparatory production. Processing fibers to yarn
In preparatory production, the fiber comes in pressed bales. Before yarn is obtained from the fiber, the fiber itself undergoes additional processing - the bale is loosened, the fibers are frayed, combed, roving is obtained on roving frames, and yarn is obtained from the roving. Rotor spinning machines allow yarn to be produced directly from belts, bypassing the roving transition.

The main purpose of the spinning process is to obtain a textile thread (yarn) from a scattered mass of cotton fibers. At the same time, the yarn must meet certain physical and mechanical properties and meet the required quality standards. Depending on the purpose of the yarn, there are different ways of producing it, different spinning systems - carded, combed, hardware, melange.

Basic concepts about the process and technology of weaving. Theory and practice of fabric formation on a weaving machine - a technological scheme of weaving production from yarn production to finishing finished fabrics, requirements for processes.

Technological diagram of the process of rewinding the main yarn, the purpose and essence of rewinding. Winding machines and automatic winding machines: their classification, main working bodies, technological and kinematic diagrams. Yarn rewinding equipment performance. Car service.

Technological diagram of the warping process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of warping. Common warping methods and equipment: batch warping machine, flying warping machine. Requirements for the process. Equipment performance and maintenance.

Flow chart of the process of sizing the base yarn, the purpose and essence of sizing. Materials for the preparation of the adhesive composition - dressings. The device of sizing machines and glue machines. Requirements for the process. Equipment performance and maintenance. The main parameters of sizing are drawing, gluing.

Methods and types of base parting, parting machines. Warp tying technology: stationary and mobile knotting machines, their performance. Defects and waste of yarn when tying warp yarns. Refueling of warp threads on machine tools due to a change in the range of products.

Rewinding of weft yarn, its moistening and additional moistening. Weaving and winding machines, their technological and kinematic diagrams, productivity. Waste and defects when rewinding a duck. Improving the physical and mechanical properties of the weft yarn before using it in weaving.

Bodies and mechanisms of looms, their classification. The essence of the process of obtaining fabric on a loom, through the mutual weaving of longitudinal (main) and transverse (weft) threads. Methods for inserting the weft thread into the throat formed by the warp threads.

Clothing industry. Requirements for the range of clothing and fabrics in the garment industry. The main assortment of garments produced by Russian enterprises. Sewing accessories. The use of garments in the textile industry.

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Introduction

Light industry occupies an important place in the structure of the country's industrial production. Favorable conditions have developed for its development in the republic. Firstly, the availability of our own raw materials (flax fiber, chemical fibers, leather raw materials, etc.); secondly, the provision of highly qualified personnel, a sufficient number of female hands, the demand for which in the industry is especially high; thirdly, a capacious market for products both in the republic itself and abroad. textile cotton spinning

The leading branch of the republic's industry is textile. The textile industry is an industry that produces threads, fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics from natural and chemical fibers. In 1997. its share was 4.2% of all industrial production. It has more than 100 enterprises producing products for both personal and industrial use. A special place is occupied by the linen, cotton, silk and woolen industries. Fabrics are produced in all areas, but both their general production and individual types are quite differentiated across the territory. Suffice it to note that almost 4/5 of all fabrics in the republic come from enterprises of Gomel, Mogilev and Vitebsk regions.

Of all types of fabrics produced in Belarus in 1998, silk were the main ones (26%). They were produced by enterprises of Mogilev, Vitebsk, Kobrin and others. Cotton fabrics, which ranked second in the total output, were produced mainly in Baranovichi and Mogilev. Their production is based entirely on imported cotton fiber. The linen industry, in contrast to the cotton, mainly relies on domestic raw materials, and was developed in Orsha, partly in Mogilev. The production of woolen fabrics due to the difficulties of raw materials supply has sharply decreased (in 1990-1998 almost 5 times) and is represented mainly by enterprises in Minsk and Grodno. The dominant position in the production of carpets and rugs is occupied by the enterprises of Brest and Vitebsk.

The textile industry includes the following industries:

* Cotton industry producing cotton and semi-cotton fabrics. These fabrics are made from yarns made from cotton fibers or blends of cotton with chemical fibers;

* Woolen industry producing woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. These fabrics are obtained from yarns made from wool fibers of various types or from mixtures of wool with chemical fibers;

* Bast industry, producing linen, semi-linen fabrics, from other bast fibers of fabric;

* Silk industry, producing silk fabrics from natural silk threads, from chemical threads, yarns and chemical fibers.

1. Characteristics of the received products

In the textile industry, the leading sub-industry is cotton. The products of this sub-industry - cotton fabrics - have been in high demand in recent years. To meet the growing needs of the population in cotton fabrics and to constantly improve their quality and expand the range of products, the cotton industry must develop at a high rate. In this case, the growth in the production of fabrics will be achieved mainly not by building new enterprises, but by improving the work of existing ones: increasing the productivity of labor and equipment, improving the conditions and organization of labor, automation and mechanization of production.

In recent years, the cotton industry has been processing an increasing amount of chemical fibers, mainly in a mixture with cotton, which gives the fabrics from these mixtures new valuable properties.

The production of cotton fabrics from cotton fibers is a complex and time-consuming process. From the moment cotton is picked from cotton plantations to the packaging of finished fabrics, it undergoes numerous operations, first in ginneries and then in textile mills. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties that make it possible to obtain high quality fabrics, knitwear, threads and other products from it.

Textile cotton enterprises can be of different types: mills, which include all three industries - spinning, weaving and finishing; separate factories - spinning, weaving and finishing or combinations of two industries, i.e. either spinning and weaving or weaving and finishing factories.

The task of spinning mills is to obtain a textile thread from a mass of cotton fibers - yarn, from which various textile products can be obtained in the future: fabric, knitwear, nonwovens, threads, etc. and twists of textile fibers.

The textile industry produces products of groups A and B. Cotton, flax, wool, silk, used directly for the production of household and technical fabrics, and fabrics that go to sewing enterprises for the production of clothing belong to group A. Fabrics, threads, cotton wool, wadding , knitwear and other products sold in trade belong to group B.

Depending on the product range selected in the project, the yarn grade must also be selected. The task is to select such a sorting of cotton, chemical fibers and such a technological process at the factory, so that, at the minimum cost of raw materials and processing, to produce yarn corresponding to GOST.

There are two types of yarn requirements: technological and operational. Technological requirements determine the ability of the yarn to be well processed in the production of fabrics and other products, and operational requirements determine the ability of the yarn to have certain properties in the product (fabric) when worn.

The yarn must meet the following requirements:

* have a given linear density with minimal deviations and be even in length, both on small and large sections. Otherwise, the quality of fabrics decreases, the process of their production deteriorates, or cotton is overused;

* have a given strength and minimum unevenness in strength.

* have a given elongation and tensile stiffness with minimal deviations from these indicators in length. Elongation, especially elastic, and stiffness largely determine the structure of the fabric and operational properties;

* have a given twist and be uniform in twist. Due to the fact that many properties of the yarn depend on its twist, compliance with this requirement is of great importance;

* be clean, with a minimum amount of foreign matter and defects in appearance.

Violation of these requirements leads to increased yarn breakage during processing and a decrease in the quality of products.

It must be borne in mind that the cost of raw materials in the cost of yarn is about 70-75% and the optimal choice of raw materials for the production of yarn of the required quality is of great importance.

Yarn is a finished product of the spinning industry and therefore its quality control, as opposed to the control of semi-finished product, is more important. Each type of yarn must meet certain requirements, which are recorded in state standards or technical specifications. However, during its production, for various reasons, defects (defects) appear on the yarn, which reduce its quality. Special methods have been developed to assess the quality of the yarn. The quality of the yarn is assessed by physical and mechanical indicators and by defects in appearance. In addition, the quality of yarn winding on a package - a bobbin, a bobbin is evaluated.

Each group of yarn has its own standards. According to GOST 4.8-68, all types of yarn produced by the cotton method are divided into the following groups for their intended purpose: for weaving, knitting and hosiery production; for textile and haberdashery production (basic, weft, patterned); for thread production and technical purposes.

To ensure the production of high quality yarns, it is necessary to observe certain ratios between yarn and fiber linear densities. This ratio determines the number of fibers across the yarn, which should be no more than 70-90.

The increase in the number of fibers in all cases has a positive effect on the quality of the yarn, therefore, yarns intended for high quality fabrics should be made from finer fibers. The correctness of the choice of raw materials is checked using the formula of Professor A.N. Solovyov, describing the relationship between the properties of cotton yarn and the properties of cotton fiber from which it is produced.

Cotton fiber, according to GOST, comes in 7 grades, first, second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth grades. The definition of fiber grade is based on its maturity, strength, length, moisture content and contamination.

Cotton fiber is used to make fabrics, threads, cotton wool, gauze, knitwear, fishing tackle, ropes, drive belts, artificial silk, paper, tracing paper, tape for the manufacture of explosives, various artificial materials that replace amber, bronze, copper, etc. From seeds cotton plants produce oil and other products.

The textile industry provides fabrics for defense, chemical, engineering, electromechanical, automotive, aviation and other industries, construction, transport, agriculture.

2. Characteristics of the raw materials used

2.1 Classification of textile fibers and the concept of fibers

Textile materials are materials that are composed of textile fibers. These materials include the fibers themselves, threads, as well as products from them.

Textile fibers are elongated flexible and strong bodies with very small transverse dimensions, limited length, suitable for the manufacture of yarns and textiles.

Fibers are divided into elemental and technical. Elementary fibers are called single fibers, indivisible into smaller ones, and technical fibers are complex ones, consisting of several elementary fibers glued together. Both those and other fibers have a relatively limited length - several tens or hundreds of millimeters.

A filament is a filament several tens and hundreds of meters long.

Textile threads are thin, flexible and strong bodies of indefinitely long length, consisting of filaments or filaments joined together and suitable for the manufacture of textiles.

A textile thread obtained by twisting successively arranged more or less straightened elementary or complex fibers is called a yarn. A thread that is obtained by connecting and twisting filaments is called a complex thread.

In nature, there are a large number of different fibers, however, in order to be used in the textile industry, they must have certain properties: first of all, significant strength, flexibility, have a rough surface, and abrasion resistance. In addition to general properties - elasticity, strength, wear resistance, ability to paint, etc. - various fibers also have specific properties, which determines their field of application.

Based on their origin and chemical composition, textile fibers are divided into natural and chemical.

Natural fibers include fibers that are formed in nature without direct human participation and consist mainly of organic heterochain natural high molecular weight compounds.

Chemical fibers include those produced in the factory and consisting mainly of organic hetero-chain and carbo-chain synthetic high-molecular compounds and a very small part of their natural inorganic compounds.

Natural fibers are divided into three groups: vegetable fibers (cotton, flax, hemp, kenaf, sisal, etc.), animal or protein fibers (wool, silk) and inorganic, mineral origin.

Consider plant fibers.

Cotton is the most important textile fiber that covers the seeds of the cotton plant grown in hot climates. After the cotton is ripe, the fibers, along with the seeds, are collected and sent to the primary cotton processing plants, where the fiber is separated from the seeds. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties: great flexibility, tenacity, very small thickness, but great strength and wear resistance. In addition, the fiber dyes well. The length of the fibers is relatively uniform and reaches 25-40 mm.

These properties make it possible to obtain a wide variety of yarns from cotton fibers: from thick yarns for the production of coarse and various furniture and clothing fabrics to very thin, from which fine elegant fabrics such as maya, cambric, marquise or percale-type fabrics for technical purposes are produced.

Bast fibers are found in the stems, leaves or shell of fruits of various plants. In the textile industry, mainly stem bast fibers are used, the most important of which is flax. In the domestic industry, flax occupies 95-97% of bast fibers.

Bast fibers are located in bundles in the bark of flax, hemp and other plants. To trim the fibers from the bark, plants must go through a long natural lobe, then they undergo heat or chemical treatment, then they are crumpled and then subjected to scuttle. This process is very complex and lengthy.

In terms of properties, linseed and other bast fibers differ from cotton. They are strong, but coarser and thicker, especially technical ones. The length of the bast fibers is greater than the length of the cotton ones, but has a great unevenness. Therefore, thicker yarn is obtained from bast fibers than from cotton. Linen yarn is used to produce towels, table and bed linen, dress and technical fabrics. Coarser linen yarn and their other fibers (hemp, kenaf, jute) are used to produce container and sack fabrics, as well as ropes and ropes.

Natural fibers of plant origin include wool and silk.

Wool is the fiber that covers the skin of sheep, goats and camels. Distinguish between natural wool, factory and regenerated. The first is obtained as a result of shearing animals, the second - when finishing animal skins and the third - when processing recycled wool.

Wool fibers are longer than cotton fibers, less durable, but more resilient. Due to this, woolen fabrics have a number of valuable properties - low wrinkle, wear resistance and drape, i.e. the ability to well maintain the shape originally given to a product made of these fabrics. Two types of yarn are made from woolen fibers: woolen yarn - thick, soft, with low strength, used for the manufacture of coat and woolen fabrics, and worsted - thin, even, durable, used for the manufacture of dress and suit fabrics and knitwear.

Silk is the thin thread produced by the caterpillar of the silkworm butterfly. Silk threads have remarkable properties. They are strong, even, resilient and have a pleasant appearance. To obtain a textile thread from them, it is enough to twist together several elementary threads (fibers). However, only half of the cocoons can be unwound. The other part forms waste, which is processed into yarn in silk spinning factories. Light beautiful dress fabrics, as well as technical ones, are made from silk threads.

Asbestos also belongs to natural fibers.

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that makes up some rocks. Asbestos fibers are 16-18 mm long, so only thick yarn can be obtained from them. Spinning of asbestos can be carried out either in pure form or mixed with cotton. Asbestos fibers do not burn, conduct heat poorly, therefore they are mainly used for the manufacture of refractory fabrics, gaskets and insulation.

Chemical fibers include artificial and synthetic. All man-made fibers are delivered to textile enterprises in the form of staple-short fibers of the appropriate length or in the form of endless threads into a complex one. Artificial fibers are obtained as a result of processing natural raw materials - cellulose, wood, cotton fluff and cotton waste.

The most common of the man-made fibers is viscose, which is processed in the cotton industry in the form of a staple with a length of 36-40. Viscose fibers are smooth, easily processed, dyed, have a low cost, but are durable, especially when wet; used mainly in cotton blends, but also in pure form.

In addition, the chemical industry produces the following artificial fibers: acetate, triacetate, copper-ammonia (in a small volume). All artificial fibers are high molecular weight organic compounds.

Synthetic fibers are obtained from the synthesis of refined petroleum products, coal and natural gas. Glass fibers are made from soda lime glass. Most of the synthetic fibers are high molecular weight compounds (nylon, lavsan, nitron).

The most widespread of synthetic fibers is the nylon polyamide compound. This fiber has great strength, it can be made of various linear density, its strength when wet is almost unchanged. Various dress and technical fabrics, knitwear are made from nylon.

Lavsan fiber is a polyester high molecular weight compound and is produced in the main form of a staple, but also in the form of a thread. Possesses good textile properties: high strength, elasticity, relatively high melting point. Lavsan staple fiber is most often used in a mixture with natural and chemical fibers, which gives the fabrics low creasing, wear resistance, and a beautiful appearance. The most common fabrics are dress, for men's shirts (cotton-lavsan), semi-woolen suit, and raincoat.

Nitron fiber is a polyacrylonitrile compound and is used mainly as a staple in a mixture with natural fibers. Nitron, in comparison with nylon and lavsan, has less strength, but it has wool. This property increases heat-shielding properties and gives them a pleasant appearance. In its pure form, nitron is used mainly for the manufacture of technical fabrics.

A characteristic feature of synthetic fibers is their inability to absorb moisture, which is accompanied by the appearance of static electricity upon mechanical action on the fibers.

2.2 Physical and mechanical properties of fiber

The physical and mechanical properties of cotton fiber include: linear density (thickness), length, strength, elongation and elasticity, resistance to abrasion, bending, compression, twisting and sliding of the fiber along the fiber, hygroscopicity, color, electrical and thermal conductivity.

Linear density is one of the most important properties of a fiber. This value shows how much a fiber of a certain length has. Linear density is measured in units called tex.

Tex is the mass in grams per kilometer of fiber (yarn), or milligrams per meter (g / km, mg / m).

The linear density of the fiber ultimately determines its transverse dimensions.

The larger the cross-sectional area of the fiber, the higher its linear density. The density of the cotton substance is 1.5 g / cm 3.

The linear density of the fibers is very important. The strength of yarns made from fibers depends on the strength of the fibers themselves and on the frictional forces between them. And these forces will be the greater, the more contacts between the fibers in its cross section, which in turn depends on the number of fibers. Consequently, the thinner the fibers, that is, the lower their linear density, the more of them will be in the cross section of a given yarn and the stronger the yarn will be. On the other hand, the finer the fibers, the finer yarn with normal tenacity can be obtained from them.

The length of the fiber is also a very important characteristic of cotton, which determines its quality. The longer the fiber, the more it comes into contact with other fibers in the yarn and the more difficult it is to pull them apart. Consequently, longer fibers can produce a stronger yarn of the same linear density or, on the other hand, thinner yarns with normal tenacity can be obtained from longer fibers. In this case, we are talking about a certain abstract length of the fiber.

Fiber strength refers to its ability to withstand tensile forces. To assess the strength, the value of the breaking load is used, that is, the greatest force that the fiber can withstand before breaking. The breaking load of the fiber is determined using dynamometers of the DSh-ZM2 type.

To compare the strength of fibers of different linear density, not absolute, but relative strength is used. For this, the breaking load must be referred to the unit of the fiber cross-sectional area or its linear density. To assess the relative strength of the fibers, the breaking length of the fiber is used, that is, the length at which the fiber mass is numerically equal to its breaking load.

To assess the quality of cotton fibers as a raw material for yarn production, the uniformity of its basic properties is of great importance.

The uniformity of the fibers is of great importance for the production of yarn, since the more uniform the fibers, the easier it is to produce uniform yarn from them, which in turn largely determines the productivity of the processes of its processing and the quality of the fabrics produced.

Elongation and elasticity are also important properties of fibers. When tensile forces are applied to the fiber, it lengthens, that is, it receives deformation.

There are two types of deformation: reversible, which in turn includes elastic and elastic, and irreversible, or plastic.

Elongation (elasticity) is associated with small changes in the distances between the polymer particles that make up the fibers, and disappears immediately after removal of the load.

Elastic is an elongation (deformation) that disappears after removing the load not immediately, but over time.

Plastic (residual) elongation does not disappear even after removing the load. Elastic elongation is associated with a change in the configuration and rearrangement of fiber polymer macromolecules. Plastic elongation is caused by the fact that irreversible displacements occur over relatively large distances between the units of macromolecules.

Elongation of fibers and especially elasticity is a very valuable property. The more a fiber lengthens under a given load, the better it can withstand sudden impacts. The higher the elastic elongation of the fiber, the better the fiber withstands multiple loads and the longer it retains its appearance and properties of a product made from it.

Of great importance are also such mechanical properties of fibers as resistance to abrasion, compression, bending and sliding of one fiber over another. The abrasion resistance of fibers is important for two reasons. First, yarns made from fibers with greater abrasion resistance will be better processed into fabric on a weaving machine, where they are subjected to multiple abrasion stresses. Secondly, a product (fabric) made from such fibers will have a longer wear life.

The resistance to compression is important for the transport of cotton, since the loose mass is pressed into bales.

The slip resistance of fibers is determined by their surface and the shape of the fibers themselves. In other words, slip resistance depends on the coefficient of friction and fiber tenacity. The larger these values, the more force must be applied to pull the fibers in the yarn. Therefore, when the yarn breaks, it will only break when the fibers break. If the fibers were completely smooth, that is, there were no friction forces between them, then it would be impossible to get yarn from them.

Cotton fiber has a relatively high coefficient of friction and high tenacity. That is why high quality yarns of a wide variety of linear densities are obtained from cotton. The mutual adhesion of cotton fibers is facilitated by their crimp, which in mature fibers reaches an average of 70-100 crimps per 1 cm.

Of the physical properties of fibers, the most important are hygroscopicity, color, thermal and electrical conductivity.

Hygroscopicity is the property of a material to change its moisture content depending on humidity and ambient temperature. Fibers contain a certain amount of moisture. With an increase in air humidity or an increase in its temperature, the moisture content of the fibers increases, and vice versa. If the fiber has this property, then it is hygroscopic. This remarkable property of the fibers largely determines the hygienic and performance properties of fabrics.

The thermal conductivity of cotton fiber is low and it is the lower, the looser the mass. This property is used in particular for the manufacture of cotton batting.

When dry, cotton fiber has low electrical conductivity, which allows cotton fabrics to be used as insulation. With increasing humidity, the electrical conductivity increases. Mechanical stress on cotton generates electrostatic charges, which make it difficult to process. Therefore, factories are fighting this phenomenon.

3. Characteristics of production technology

3.1 Concept of spinning

In the textile industry, cotton, linen, wool, natural silk and chemical fibers are processed into products. The set of technological processes used to process these fibers into yarns of a certain thickness and strength is called spinning.

The set of machines and processes by which fibers are processed into a particular type of yarn is called a spinning system.

3.2 Spinning systems

To obtain yarn from a mass of fibers, cotton must undergo several processing operations. Cotton is supplied to spinning mills in a compressed form. After pretreatment at primary processing plants, cotton is cleaned of large weeds and seeds. However, it still contains a large amount of small impurities, as well as damaged (short) fibers. Individual fibers in this mass of cotton are entangled, interconnected in the form of shreds or with weeds. Therefore, the task of all cotton spinning operations includes the subsequent cleaning, loosening and mixing of the fibers, and then combing them in order to parallelize, align and form a gradually thinning product (canvas, ribbon and roving), in order to twist a ribbon of parallel fibers and obtain yarn at the final stage. given properties.

The first stage of processing involves loosening the cotton, mixing and cleaning. For this, the mass of cotton from the bale is fed by the feeding grids of the loosening units to the working bodies. Here the cotton is exposed to needles or large, easily removable impurities. The trash impurities through the grates fall into the carbon monoxide chambers, and the loosened cotton mass by pneumatic or mechanical feeders gets to the next sections of the loosening and scutching unit. Cotton comes out of the loosening and scutching unit in the form of a canvas - a compacted layer of cotton in the form of a roll. The canvas must be of a certain thickness. The fibers of cotton in the canvas are in a chaotic state in the form of scraps and, in addition, cotton contains a certain amount of small, hard-to-remove trash impurities.

The next operation that takes place on a card is called carding. Cotton is delivered to the machine in the form of a linen or loose mass (linen-free feeding). On a carding machine, the mass of fiber is first exposed to the teeth of the serrated tape and rollers, and then to the thin needles of the set of the working parts of the machine. As a result of this, the cotton scraps are combed into separate fibers with simultaneous cleaning from tenacious impurities and short fibers. After carding, a ribbon is formed from a partially parallelized thin fleece (carded) of fibers, which is a long loose round semi-finished product with a diameter of 1-3 cm.In the ribbon, the fibers are combed, almost not connected to each other, but not straightened and weakly oriented relative to the axis of the ribbon. The tape itself is uneven in thickness.

For straightening the fibers and straightening the tape, complex several tapes are produced, and then the folded product is thinned to the thickness of the original tapes. As a result of folding, the straps are aligned, since the thickened sections are folded into thinned ones. With the subsequent thinning of the product, the fibers are straightened and oriented relative to the axis of the tape. Thinning occurs due to stretching of the product when it passes through pairs of cylinders pressed against each other (exhaust pairs) and the speed of the previous pair is less than the next.

The task of the next transition is to thin the thread to a size suitable for yarn production. This operation is carried out on roving frames, where the product is thinned on a drafting device. The product of the roving transition is called roving. This is a thin ribbon, which is given a slight twist to give minimal strength.

The last final yarn-making operation takes place on the spinning machines. Here the product - roving - is stretched to the thickness of the yarn, twisted, and a thin and strong yarn is obtained. The spinning process is carried out either on ring spinning machines with spindles and runners, or on spindleless rotor machines.

The described sequence of processing cotton in the spinning industry is called carded (conventional). This system produces most of the cotton yarn. Table 1 shows the stages of processing, technological processes and equipment used for processing cotton fiber into yarn using a carded spinning system.

There is also combed, hardware and melange systems. Carded and combed systems have two spinning methods: ring spinning and rotor spinning.

The hardware system is currently beginning to be replaced by a carding system, in which rotary rotor or air-jet spinning machines are used.

The melange system, in principle, repeats the carded one, but has additional transitions associated with dyeing cotton.

The combed system produces yarns of low linear density or medium, but with increased strength. For the production of such (combed) yarn, fine-fiber varieties of cotton are used. Compared to carded yarns, combed yarns are stronger, more even, smoother and cleaner. To obtain such a yarn, a combing transition is additionally added to the process. At this transition, the fibers are combed (combing), as a result of which short fibers (stripping) are combed out of the product and removed. The sliver that comes out of the comber consists of long, even, well-straightened fibers, and therefore the yarn is of high quality.

In order for the combing process to take place without excessive loss of long fibers and their damage, the latter must be sufficiently straightened, and the product entering the machine must be uniform. Therefore, the strip from the carding machines undergoes two additional preparatory operations: joining into laps of 16-20 strips and stretching (thinning) of the laps.

The comb system has a processing sequence shown in Table 2.

Loose fluffy yarn with low strength is produced by the hardware system; lower requirements are imposed on the quality of this yarn. Fibers of various lengths, a large amount of waste (waste), as well as mixtures of their various fibers are used as raw materials. In the latter case, the loosening and scattering of the components is sometimes carried out separately, and then there is mixing with simultaneous oiling of the fibers. A characteristic feature of the hardware system is that the thinning of the product after carding does not occur during the process of pulling it out, but by dividing the fleece (carding) into separate belts and obtaining rovings from them with slight twisting of the belts. Carding with this system is carried out on carding machines, which include 2-3 carding transitions and a roving carriage. The resulting roving is transferred to the spinning machine. In the roving obtained on the carding apparatus, the fibers are weakly straightened, which determines the loose structure of the yarn.

The melange system produces yarn, consisting of a mixture of cotton, dyed in different colors in one color. With this system, the loosened fiber is dyed in apparatuses, dried and fed back to the loosening machines. After that, the fiber is mixed, scuttled and all subsequent operations of one of the described spinning systems.

3.3 Loosening and scattering

The purpose of the processes and the requirements for them.

In bales, the fibers are strongly compressed and therefore tightly connected with each other and with trash impurities. Fibers, even in one bale, are uneven in their properties, the more they differ in different batches that make up the mixture. To prepare cotton for further processing, it is subjected to loosening, peeling, mixing and scuttling. Thus, the purpose of the loosening-scuttle transition is as follows:

1. separation of the compressed mass of fibers from the bales into small pieces;

2. the release of trash impurities and fibers not suitable for spinning;

3. mixing of fibers;

4. Creation of a uniform flow of cotton in the form of a canvas or loose mass.

This process has certain requirements:

A high degree of cleaning cotton from weeds, good mixing of fibers, no ignition of the fibers and the creation of a product (canvas) of greater uniformity, since it is difficult to obtain ribbon and then yarn of good quality from uneven webs.

The division of the mass of fibrous material into shreds is achieved first by plucking it with the needles of the gratings, and then by blows of the working bodies of the loosening and scutching machines. Removal of trash impurities also occurs by striking the working bodies on the cotton scraps and sucking them off with air. Stirring of the pulp occurs due to the uniform supply of the components of the mixture (cotton from various bales) into the machines, by repeatedly reloading the mass of cotton in the chambers of the machine or by overlaying several layers one on top of the other. To create an even flow of cotton, there are special mechanisms on the scutching machines.

General device and principle of operation of machines for loosening-scutching transition.

Depending on the nature of the cotton being processed, machines of different designs and in different combinations can be included in the opening and scattering unit. There are machines for processing medium staple cotton (carded spinning system) and fine staple cotton (combed spinning system).

For the carded spinning system, there are currently two types of aggregates: a new single-process one with automatic cotton feeding and an old one with manual feeding.

On the new unit, the whole bales are loaded into automatic feeders, the pre-loosened cotton goes into continuous mixers, where fibers of different batches are mixed, then in the inclined cleaners and the inclined cleaners with a condenser, the cotton is further loosened and debris removed. The cotton flow is directed to the bins of the scutching machines.

3.4 Scratching

After loosening, mixing and scuttling, the cotton mixture still contains a part of weeds, the fibers are not completely separated from one another, are entangled and make up separate small shreds. Further scattering does not allow to completely separate the fibers and prepare the cotton for further technological operations of yarn production. Therefore, the next transition is the process of carding cotton.

Purpose of the carding process and the requirements for it

In the process of carding, the cotton scraps are separated into individual fibers; cleaning cotton from trash impurities remaining in it and partial removal of short fibers; partial straightening and parallelization of the fibers; and finally, the thinning of the product and the formation of the ribbon.

The fulfillment of these tasks occurs due to the use of a special headset in carding machines - a serrated metal tape with teeth or an elastic tape with flexible thin needles. Interacting with each other and with the pulp, the working bodies, covered with the specified set, pull the fibers out of the shreds, separate them from trash impurities, including tenacious ones, and arrange the fibers more or less parallel in the output product - a carding tape.

The comb transition has a great influence on the further process of yarn production, since it is here that an almost finished semi-finished product is formed. In addition, in this process, the removal of trash impurities ends, and all the remaining fibers already enter the yarn. Thus, the main task of the carding process is to obtain a product - a combed tape with a minimum amount of trash impurities, with a high degree of separation of the complexes and good straightening and parallelization of fibers, and most importantly, high evenness of the tape.

At spinning mills, mainly flat carding machines are used, which can be divided into three groups: carding machines of large (normal) sizes such as ChMS-450, small-sized cards such as ChMM-14 and new double-drum carding machines such as ChMD-4, which ensure high ribbon quality. ... Roller cards are also used.

General device and principle of operation of carding machines

On carding machines of any type with continuous carding, the process consists of three sequential operations: thinning the product (canvas) and removing large trash impurities, carding the fibers with toothed and needle surfaces and removing the carding and forming a ribbon.

We will show the device and the principle of operation of the carding machine using the example of the ChMM-14 machine, which has received the greatest distribution in recent years (Figure 3.3). The canvas is laid between two canvas racks and the canvas roller 2, rotating, rolls it out and feeds it to the feed table 3 under the feed cylinder 4. The feed cylinder feeds the canvas to the receiving unit, where it is sequentially developed by the drums - the receiving 5 and the transmitting 6 and the working rollers pairs - working 7 and cleaner 8. The fiber from the transfer drum 6 under the action of the serrated tape teeth goes to the main drum 9 and enters the carding zone: the main drum - hats. As a result of the interaction of cotton with the teeth of the tape of the main drum and the needles of the caps, there is an intensive separation of the fiber complexes into separate ones, as well as their parallelization and partial straightening. Hat strip 10 consists of 74 needle-coated caps (strips), of which 24 are in use.

The combed fiber from the main drum 9 goes to the removable drum 11. From the removable drum, the comb is removed by roller removal 12 and passes through the pressure rolls 13, under the action of which the trash impurities are crushed, followed by falling out of the cotton. Further, the carding enters the forming funnel 14, where the ribbon is formed, then into the drafting device 15.

The machine is equipped with self-stops, stopping it when the belt becomes thinner or breaks, the cover of the belt layer is opened, the space between the belt guide and the feed rollers is clogged with the belt. In addition, the machine is equipped with a dedusting device with suction of dusty air and a mechanism for removing waste from under the machines.

3.5 Pre-spinning (obtaining roving)

The purpose of prespinning is to produce a thinner product from the strip, called roving.

Rovnitsa is called a thread that has a loose structure, a relatively high evenness and a certain thickness. Roving is made from ribbons.

The ribbons are heterogeneous in their structure and not uniform enough in thickness. The belts are very thick compared to rovings and yarns. In this regard, during the production of roving, the belts pass through a series of machines on which the gradual leveling and thinning of the product by 5-20 or more times, achieved by folding and stretching, continues. At the first transitions of the roving frame machines, the fibers are greased with an emulsion. Sizing increases fiber slip during pulling, reduces electrification and increases roving yield due to reduced fiber breakage and waste.

Previously, due to the lack of high-stretching devices, to obtain fine yarn, sequential processing of a semi-finished product was used on three to four roving frames.

Moreover, a thick roving was obtained from the first (pelvic) machine, and from subsequent transitions - a distillation, thin and extra-thin. Nowadays, thanks to the use of high-stretching devices on roving frames and spinning machines, it has become possible to produce yarns of small and medium thicknesses, with one roving transition or one-stage spinning directly from the ribbon.

3.6 Spinning

The purpose of spinning is to produce yarn from semi-finished products (ribbons and rovings) entering the spinning department. The essence of spinning consists in thinning the incoming intermediate product to a given linear density, in giving the resulting product (yarn) by means of twisting the required strength and forming a certain package by winding: a cob or a bobbin.

Certain requirements are imposed on spinning as the final stage in yarn production.

The spinning process must provide high quality yarn that meets the technological and consumer properties.

The process should, if possible, run continuously. With a high breakage, there is a decrease in machine performance and an increase in waste. The yarn produced at high breakage on the spinning machine is poorly processed in the weaving industry.

Depending on the methods of thinning and shaping the product (spinning methods), a distinction is made between ring or spindle and spindleless spinning machines. Ring spinning machines are subdivided into warp and weft spinning machines. On the basis of the machines, the yarn is wound on paper cartridges in packages (cobs) with a mass of 60-100 g., The yarn from the cobs is rewound into bobbins. On weft machines, the yarn is wound on wooden spools and used in this form directly on the weaving machine.

In recent years, ring spinning machines have appeared that provide a high degree of product thinning (drawing up to 60 or 100). On such machines, the semi-product can come in the form of a tape, bypassing the roving transition. Thus, ring spinning machines can be roving frame (conventional) and roving frameless.

Of the spindle-less spinning machines, pneumomechanical machines of the BD-200 type have found practical application in industry. machines for rotary spinning (rotor spinning), mechanical, electromechanical and hydraulic spinning methods are also being developed.

Spinning machines of any spinning method are designed to thin the product (ribbon or rovings) by pulling it out on drafting devices of various designs, which provide a draw from 10 to 100; forming strong yarn from a sliver using a twisting mechanism - a spindle and a runner on ring machines and a pneumatic chamber on spindle-free machines and winding the produced yarn onto a package - a cob (spool) or a cylindrical bobbin.

3.7 developing a spinning plan

Selection of the spinning system, i.e. the choice of a certain range of machines on which the processing of raw materials for yarn production will be carried out is closely related to the development of a spinning plan.

The spinning plan is the main document of the spinning mill that defines the yarn production technology. It contains the master data defining the threading of the machines of all transitions to produce yarns of the required linear density and quality. The spinning plan determines the performance of all machines and their number.

The drawing up of the spinning plan and the selection of technological equipment are carried out in parallel, since the technical capabilities of the machine affect the parameters of the spinning plan. On the other hand, changing individual parameters of the spinning plan sometimes necessitates a change to the earlier machine selection made.

The development of a spinning plan is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. selection and justification of the linear density of all semi-finished products, the number of additions and extracts carried out on the machines of all transitions.

2. selection and justification of the release rate of the product on all machines, as well as the rotational speed of the spindles on the roving frame and spinning machines.

3. Calculation of the theoretical productivity of the machine, release, spindle, kg / h.

4. calculation of the output of one machine, release, spindle and other parameters.

To substantiate each parameter of the spinning plan, it is necessary to use technical literature, as well as know the experience of leading enterprises.

It is necessary to strive for the greatest use of the capacity of the exhaust devices, for obtaining high equipment productivity by increasing the rotation frequency of the issuing bodies of the machines. Stretching and equipment speed should be chosen within reasonable limits, so that the quality of the product and the level of breakage in spinning would ensure economical use of raw materials, maximize yarn yield from the cotton blend, sufficiently high service areas for key production workers and, ultimately, the minimum cost of yarn.

Optimal, i.e. The best spinning plan is one that requires the lowest capital investment in equipment, provides the best working conditions, and ensures high product quality.

Literature

1. Fundamentals of technology of the most important industries: In 2. / Ed. I.V. Chentsova. "Higher school", Minsk, 1989.

2. Bukaev P.T. General technology of cotton production. "Light and food industry", M., 1981.

3. Smelova N.A., Kazaryan M. 3., Loktyusheva V.I. Cotton production technology, M., 1992.

4.S. Lothar, H. Manfred. Yarn preparation technology for weaving and knitting. M., 1989.

Posted on Allbest.ru

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Fabric making business

The production of fabrics is a demanded line of business. The scope of use of textiles is very diverse. Popular areas of its application:

production of clothes: home, casual, smart sportswear for adults and children, workwear;
production of accessories: scarves, bags, wallets;
interior and design: furniture production, curtains, drapes, tablecloths;
home textiles: bed linen, blankets, towels, oven mitts.

Business brief analysis:
Business setup costs: from 3 million rubles
Relevant for cities with population:from 700 thousand people
Industry situation:high competition
Complexity of business organization: 4/5
Payback: up to 2 years

There are other areas, for example, the production of materials for tourist equipment (tents, sleeping bags, etc.), the production of decorative fabrics and fabrics for handicrafts. There are fewer customers in this area, so the role of marketing and sales department is increasing in order to interest potential partners and convince them to start cooperation.

Business outlook

Due to the economic and political events that have taken place since the end of the 1980s, this segment of production in Russia has been practically destroyed. Today, most of the fabrics are imported from abroad - both legally and counterfeit.

However, for the domestic market, the situation is changing for the better. According to experts, the production of fabrics in our country is a potentially promising niche. With a competent business plan and skillful management, an enterprise can quickly pay off and bring good profits. The demand for fabrics is large and continues to increase, while people are interested in both the budget segment and expensive high-quality fabrics with an interesting design.

On the rise are companies producing textiles for bed linen - coarse calico, chintz, poplin. A large share of the market is also occupied by enterprises producing knitwear, suiting fabrics and broadcloth.

According to experts, the production of furniture fabrics is especially promising, since this market segment is actively developing and the demand for high-quality materials is very high.

The clothing manufacturing market in our country is also quite diverse, but import manufacturers, primarily China, are in great competition here. Nevertheless, practice shows: in this area, there is also a constant search for high-quality goods with unusual characteristics - patterns or textures. Therefore, those who can meet customer demand have every chance of success.

Business organization

Before starting production, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the market and the range. It is advisable to have a good understanding of the types of fabric, to understand the technological processes.

An entrepreneur must imagine what kind of fabric he wants to produce, what niche in the market to occupy and through what channels to sell.

Premises for the workshop

The premises can be bought out or the production area can be rented. It is also possible to negotiate with an operating company and place orders for production with them.

The latter option involves the development of your own fabric design and the purchase of raw materials, on the basis of which the manufacturing factory will make the fabric. In this case, there are no costs associated with the acquisition of production facilities, the purchase and maintenance of equipment, a small staff will reduce labor costs. But the ability to control the process and the quality of the final product are reduced. Such a scheme of work increases the cost of logistics, so if the factory is located remotely, it may turn out to be unprofitable.

The area of the enterprise depends on the planned production volumes. It is necessary to remember the compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. The room should be well lit, with a ceiling height of at least 4 m. It will be necessary to provide good ventilation, in the cold season - heating.

For the comfort of workers, changing rooms with showers and a place for eating are needed. To ensure fire safety and uninterrupted operation of the equipment, it is necessary to take care of high-quality wiring. For the convenience of loading and unloading, an equipped area will be required, if possible, an auto amp.

In addition to the workshop, dry warehouses will be required for storing raw materials and finished products, as well as office premises.

Practice shows that it is more convenient to locate production facilities near the exit from the city or immediately outside the city limits. Large-sized vehicles are usually used in logistics, so this location of the enterprise will speed up their movement and will not cause difficulties with parking if the organization's fleet has several of its own cars.

Raw material supply channels

Depending on the raw materials used, fabrics are divided into two large groups:

natural (wool, silk, linen, cotton);
artificial (viscose, polyester, acetate).

Hence the most promising types of fabrics for production:

cotton;
linen;
woolen;
polyester;
technical.

Two types of natural raw materials are produced in Russia: flax and wool. It is necessary to negotiate supplies in the agricultural enterprises engaged in their industrial production. As for cotton, its production in our country is practically absent. Historically, Uzbekistan was the main supplier of this raw material in the Soviet Union; today it also continues to be the world's leading supplier of cotton.

China is the world's largest silk producer. It is also produced in India and Uzbekistan. Today silk fabrics and silk products are presented mainly in the premium and luxury price segments. There is a drop in demand for these fabrics not only in Russia, but also in the world. Therefore, using it in the manufacture of fabrics requires a well-thought-out business plan with established distribution channels.

The situation with synthetic fibers is much simpler: many enterprises are engaged in their production, and the development of technologies allows us to modify and improve the assortment.

When purchasing foreign raw materials at the initial stage, it is more convenient to work with dealers. This will allow you to purchase goods from a warehouse in Russia without waiting for international delivery and customs clearance.

Fabric production technology

The technological process has its own nuances depending on the type and desired characteristics of the fabric. The general algorithm looks like this:

Production stage	What do they do on it
Raw material pretreatment	The pressed bales received for production are loosened and separated into fibers by scattering and combing
Getting yarn	A thin long thread is twisted from the fibers obtained - yarn
Fabric creation	The resulting threads are intertwined in a specific order to obtain a continuous web
Fabric processing	To give the fabric the desired properties, it is subjected to special processing. At the same stage, the drawing is applied and fixed.

Necessary equipment

When starting a business on the basis of existing production facilities, it is required to assess the condition of the equipment. The equipment at many factories is outdated, which will inevitably affect the quality of the finished product. Therefore, you should not save on equipment.

The specific machines included in the production line depend on the raw materials used and the final destination of the fabrics. The production of cotton, wool or synthetics involves different technological processes. Upholstery fabrics require more complex weaving and processing than bedding fabrics.

Machines used in production	Operations performed
Winders	Used to rewind yarn
Loom	Weaves threads to create a canvas
Sizing machine	Impregnates fabrics with a special solution to increase the wear resistance of the fabric
Rolling machine	Coils the canvas into rolls
Dyeing and printing machines	Dyeing fabrics and applying specified prints to them
Washing machine	Washes away paint residues from fabric
Measuring machine	With its help, the compliance of the finished fabric with standards is monitored.

Also, depending on the chosen specialization, separate equipment will be required: a spinning machine will be needed for wool processing, and a carding machine for working with flax.

Business registration

To formalize the production, the manager must choose the legal form in which he will work - individual entrepreneur, LLC, joint stock company. In addition, it is mandatory to obtain a product certificate. In his absence, the company faces serious fines.

Marketing and distribution channels

The production of fabrics is focused on large and small wholesale. Distribution channels depend on the chosen direction, but conditionally they can be divided into manufacturers who buy fabric for further processing and manufacture of the final product, and dealers who buy it for resale in smaller lots.

The retail buyer is not always represented in the sales channels of the factory, because it is unprofitable for the manufacturer to sell fabric by the meter and store the leftovers. However, you can use this direction of the sale of goods by opening a retail store at the factory.

Another direction of production development and a way to expand the target audience is the manufacture of products from our own fabrics under our own brand. This direction is not suitable for all types of fabrics, it is easiest to implement it in the production of home textiles - bed linen and towels.

Export of fabrics is also possible. At the moment, the largest share falls on linen fabrics. However, practice shows a constant decline in the volume of exports, so it is rather risky to bet on it.

Finally, you can choose a target niche: for example, fabrics for sewing uniforms or workwear. In these areas, tenders are often played out or bids are made for large deliveries.

Marketing

Marketing strategies are based on finding repeat customers. It should be understood that most of the sales will most likely be conducted remotely. At the same time, potential customers already have other suppliers and have planned a budget. Therefore, it makes sense to think over and launch a marketing campaign right away, when opening a business, so that by the start of production there is a real sales opportunity. This will allow you to avoid overpacking, reduce costs by reducing shelf life and quickly recoup costs.

Promotion methods:

Annual specialized exhibitions are an opportunity to declare yourself and establish business contacts. The largest and most famous of them, for example, Tekstillegprom and Interkan, are held twice a year in Moscow. There are also regional exhibitions. They are less representative, but participation in them is more budgetary. The bonus of a trip to such events will be the opportunity to find new suppliers of raw materials working on favorable terms.
Product promotion is impossible without the World Wide Web. The company should not only have a high-quality website, but also post information on thematic sites. PPC advertising has become less effective in recent years due to the ubiquity of ad blockers, but this way of informing yourself also deserves attention.
It makes no sense for a producer to submit information to newspapers. But it is worth paying for placement in thematic magazines and booklets.
Since the search for customers occurs remotely, and the fabric, as a product, needs tactile evaluation, it is necessary to prepare product samples for free presentation and mailing to customers. For the same purposes, it is convenient to order catalogs, since many customers subsequently place orders on them according to the requirements of the end customer.
Cold calling is still popular as a way to find new customers. This method is focused rather on the long-term perspective and allows, first of all, to expand the base of potential clients for further work of managers.

Costs and return on business

The initial investment required depends on the availability of the equipment and its condition. Experts say that it is often easier to buy new machines than to upgrade outdated equipment. At the same time, it is recommended to buy the entire production line, and not in parts.

The costs are influenced by the raw materials used, and the condition of the selected premises, and the estimated production volumes, on which the size of the staff depends, among other things.

At the initial stage, at least 3 million rubles will be required. An approximate cost estimate for the production of one kind of fabric with a staff of no more than 25 people includes:

Costs	Approximate amount, thousand rubles
Business registration	50
Industrial premises for rent	100
Purchase or upgrade of equipment	1500
Equipment for industrial and office premises	500
Purchase of raw materials	200
Staff salary	500
Promotional activities: participation in exhibitions, advertising, etc.	100
Logistics	50
Communal payments	20
Unforeseen costs	100
Total	3120

You should also consider taxes. This item is not included in the table of expenses, since the amounts are very different from the profit and the chosen taxation scheme.

The payback depends on production volumes and fabric prices. Prices, in turn, depend on the type of fabric: coarse calico for bed linen will be cheaper than furniture fabrics, natural wool is more expensive than polyester. On average, with well-established distribution channels and no major contingencies, the investment will pay off in two years.

Fabric production process from thread to counter

The choice of a method for forming a suit largely depends on the type of material and its fibrous composition. Currently, many modern materials have been developed that allow you to create a complex shape and various effects. The expansion of the assortment and the increase in the production of textile fibers are carried out in several directions:

improving the properties of fibers for a wide range of applications due to their modification - increasing comfort and mechanical properties;

creation of superfibers with special properties for a narrower purpose (ultra-strong, super-elastic, ultra-thin, etc.);

creation of interactive fibers that actively "respond" to changes in external conditions (heat, lighting, mechanical stress, etc.);

development of new technologies for the production of synthetic fibers from reproducible (natural) raw materials in order to reduce dependence on a decrease in oil and gas reserves;

the use of biotechnology to synthesize new types of fiber-forming polymers and improve the quality of natural fibers.

A widely used method aimed at changing and improving the properties of fibers is their modification. There are various ways to physically and chemically modify fibers. One of the directions of physical (structural) modification of fibers - profiling of fibers is achieved by using dies with holes of various shapes: a triangle, a trefoil, a multi-beam asterisk, a double rhombus, slit-like different configurations, etc. This method of modifying the surface of the fibers imparts a roughness, increased tenacity. Due to this, threads and materials from such fibers acquire increased bulk and porosity.

Methods for producing multilayer fibers (up to 100 film layers) have been developed in the USA and Japan. Such fibers are capable of changing gloss and hue and saturation when changing light or angle of view, and even have a holographic effect.

Segment-type bicomponent fibers made of multi-shrinkable polymers after heat treatment acquire stable crimp, reaching 100%. Combined fibers can be obtained by deposition on the finished fiber (substrate) of various polymers from solutions or melts, forming a "jacket" of any thickness on its surface. In particular, low-melting layers of a binder polymer used to produce nonwovens are deposited on the surface of cellulosic and chemical fibers.

In recent decades, one of the main directions for improving and improving the quality of chemical fibers has been the creation of superfine fibers [Buzov, Alymenkova, 2004], which make it possible to create a certain texture (surface) of the material: the “peach skin” effect, suede surface, velvety, soft silky surface , approaching the carcass of natural silk. Fibers and materials that "give pleasure", pleasant for all senses in foreign special literature, are called "high-touch".

test questions

1. Definition of the concept of "suit tectonics".

2. Types of tectonic systems of the suit.

3. Distinctive features of the tectonic systems of the suit.

4. Methods of shaping the suit shell systems.

5. Examples of frame systems in a suit.

6. The system of connections between the elements of the suit form.

7. Factors affecting the ability of fabrics to form.

8. Methods of forming and fixing the shape of clothing parts.

9. Ways to expand the range of textile fibers.

10. New textile fibers and materials.

The fabric at all times remains the product of the light industry that does not lose its use. The fabric is made by a weaving factory. Its organization will require the purchase or lease of premises sufficient to install a whole line of production equipment.

Basics of fabric production

The fabric is made from yarn, which in turn is made from fiber. The quality of the resulting fabric is highly dependent on the characteristics of the fibers.

Fibers are divided into natural and chemical, derived from natural raw materials or obtained as a result of chemical synthesis, for example, polymer fibers.

The entire technology is conventionally divided into three stages:

Spinning;
Weaving;
Finishing.

Spinning

The basis of fabric production is spinning. This is the process that produces a long thread - a yarn woven from short fibers. This production process is carried out on a spinning machine.

The fibers produced by the factory are usually compressed into small bales. Then they are loosened and rubbed on the appropriate machines, while cleaning them from the impurities of debris. The scutching machine produces a canvas from the threads, which is rolled into a roll.

The resulting canvas is then passed through carding surfaces covered with fine metal needles. At the exit, after carding, a tape is obtained, which must be leveled on a draw frame, and then slightly twisted on a roving and twisting machine. After these operations, roving is obtained.

On a spinning machine, the roving is leveled and stretched, then wound onto bobbins. The spinning machine for the production of fabrics is operated by spinners. Their responsibilities include eliminating yarn and roving breaks, changing bobbins and maintaining equipment.

Yarn is used to make:

jersey;
sewing threads;
non-woven and woven fabrics.

Synthetic yarn

For the synthetic production of fabric, a more complex technological scheme is used. From the starting components, a liquid and viscous spinning mass is obtained. It enters a spinning machine specially designed for processing synthetic fibers.

Fibers are formed using special dies - this is a small metal hood with many small holes inside. With the help of pumps, the mass enters the die and flows out through the small holes. The flowing out streams are treated with special solidification solutions.

The creation of a synthetic fiber is also the spinning of that fiber. Depending on what the fabric is intended for and what quality is required, the number of threads twisting into one is calculated. After finishing, the threads are wound on bobbins and sent to weaving.

Weaving

The direct process of making fabric from yarn is called weaving. The equipment for production at this stage is serviced by weavers who can operate up to fifty automatic looms.

On a mechanical machine, the weaver replaces empty spools, eliminates thread breaks. The employee must know the requirements for the quality of the fabric, the parameters of the defective fabric and the reasons for the appearance of defects, the measures for preventing and eliminating the defects. When the weaver starts the loom, it begins to combine the yarn into a woven fabric.

Threads and weaves

There are transverse and lobar threads, intertwined in different ways. The lobe threads are guided along the canvases as they are thinner and stronger. Transverse threads are thicker, shorter, tend to stretch.

The fabric obtained on the loom is called harsh. Threads woven from fibers of different colors are called melange. A fabric made of melange threads is called similarly. But if threads with different colors were used for the production of woven fabric, the fabric is called multi-colored.

The properties of the future fabric depend on the type of weave:

Large-patterned weave - jacquard;
Complex weave - pile, pike, openwork, looped, double;
Simple weave - twill, satin, linen, satin, crepe and diagonal.

Small-patterned weaves are made on a single shuttle automatic loom. Multicolored and complex weaves - on a multi-shuttle automatic loom, large-pattern - on Jacquard looms.

How fabric is made

Fabric finishing

The last stage of production is finishing. It improves the quality and properties of the fabric, gives it a presentation and strength, depending on what processes involve finishing.

Finishing can be done:

teasing;
whitening;
mercerization;
scorching;
boiling.

When singing, protruding fibers are removed from the surface of the harsh cloth. Desizing involves soaking the fabric to remove the sizing - the impregnation applied during weaving.

Boiling removes any impurities from the canvas, and mercerization gives shine, strength and hygroscopicity by washing. When bleached, the fabric is discolored, and when brushed, they give it softness.

Final finishing

The final finishing includes such processes as:

calendering;
expansion;
dressing.

Calendering involves flattening the web, widening - aligning it to a standard width, finishing - applying starch for density, whiteness for bleaching, or wax or oil for shine.

Equipment

Fabric production requires a fairly rich production line. Let's consider the main types of production equipment, without which the manufacture of woven products cannot be started.

Loom

Designed for the manufacture of woven fabric, it can be shuttleless and shuttle, round and flat, wide and narrow. Weaving looms are selected depending on what kind of fabric needs to be produced: linen, silk, cotton or woolen.

Special equipment for working with a loom that produces decorative and patterned fabrics, carpets and other rugs.

Sizing machine

Impregnates fabrics with an adhesive solution called dressing. This is necessary for the production of wear-resistant and special fabrics, for example, for workwear.

Rolling machine

It is used to roll the resulting fabric into a roll or bobbin using an automatically rotating roller. A properly maintained knurling machine works more efficiently than the manual winding of the web by weavers, especially on a production scale.

Dyeing line and printing machines

Allows to dye fabrics with natural or synthetic dyes. The printing machine applies color prints with ink or dissolves the stencil pattern onto the finished dyed fabric.

Washing and measuring machines

The washing machine washes and dries woven fabrics after printing or dyeing, and inspection equipment is used to check the quality of the finished woven product, its length, width, density.

Scraper and shaker machines

Used when processing flax fibers to obtain shorter fibers. Shaking machines open up short fiber and give it a marketable appearance.

Carding and spinning machines

The carding machine processes flax fiber and makes ribbons from it, while the spinning machine produces yarn with the required strength. The spinning machine can be spindle or spindleless, the first, in turn, is subdivided into weft and main.

This is just the main line of equipment, you may also need:

linen cotoning lines;
beating machines;
squeezing and drying machines;
wool washing and cotton processing devices.

It depends on the direction of the enterprise.