How to make a monocle at home. How to make a telescope from binoculars - a practical experience of creating a telescope from binoculars. About working with a monocle

Monocle- a lens with just one lens. The lens is necessarily concave-convex, often called the meniscus. On the one hand, a monocle is nowhere easier, but on the other hand, it is a very difficult device to understand and operate.

This review presents two monocles, one converted from the Helios-44 lens, and the other from the Helios-44m-4 lens. Both monocles are very similar. The best thing monocles from converted Helios behave at apertures of 4.0-8.0, almost always use them at 5.6 and forget about the aperture control ring. It's funny, but if you close the aperture to 16.0, then the lens turns into a pretty dark, but sharp lens.

Aperture on a monocle from the lens Helios-44m-4

Monocle best done with a large lens. The larger the lens, the more interesting the drawing will be. I met bright thoughts that the diaphragm of the monocle should be annular. Well, even if not annular, then at least placed in front of the lens, and not behind it (as in a conventional lens).

Advantages:

Just unique drawing... And no editor will be able to repeat the airiness and volume of the picture. If you take a few good shots with a monocle, you can fall in love with it for life.
Cheapness of manufacturing... You can make the monocle yourself. How to do this is not difficult to find on the Internet. Usually, simple monocles, such as mine, are made of inexpensive high-aperture prime lenses like the same Helios-81n, Helios-44m-X.
The lens turns out to be very light and you don't need to worry about its integrity at all, even if it breaks, you can always make another one.

Flaws:

Spherical and chromatic aberrations, distortion falling contrast. But in skillful hands these disadvantages turn into advantages, the main thing is the correct approach. Even in the backlight, you can get interesting photo for the landscape.
Difficulty focusing... Not for the faint of heart. After switching from autofocus zoom to a monocle, it can be a little headache from trying to get into sharpness.
Like the other manual lens on most Nikon DSLR cameras the exposure meter will not work... How to work with manual optics on Nikon system in the article -. How to work on a Canon system in the article
It's almost impossible to make a zoom monocle

About working with a monocle

When you close the aperture, not only does the depth of field change, but also the focus point itself. The usual method of aiming on the open and taking a picture on the covered one is not suitable. Therefore, you need to focus on the sharpness already at the aperture on which you plan to shoot. To facilitate focusing on film cameras, it is advisable to use special focusing screens. On DSLR cameras, only a keen eye will help without additional funds, sometimes Live View. But even Live View helps very little and is difficult to focus on.

About the picture on the monocle

The picture is really unusual, in fact, only for the sake of the picture, people use the monocle. The monocle has the strongest spherical aberrations (blur between contrasting elements in the image). And these aberrations serve as a good service for creating interesting pictures. The monocle is especially appreciated for creating portraits with interesting effects. Also for still life and landscape - there the monocle can show its fabulous drawing.

Distortion is most visible at the edges of the frame, therefore, by placing objects in the center of the photo, you can focus on it well. In general, pictures printed on A4 look very good from a monocle.

Monocle excellent conveys volume... In a portrait, you can forget about skin defects and start focusing on the character of the person being portrayed. The softness and airiness of a monocle is very important for a facial portrait. Spherical aberrations can eat up the sharpness, but the monocle gives the contours of the image, which is very, very important in photography.

The most interesting

And the most interesting thing is that in post-processing impossible to repeat the drawing of the monocle... So if someone asks you, is it not easier to just photoshoot a photo, tell him that the drawing of a monocle cannot be faked. At the same time, a monocle is in demand among professionals, and as such the lens is not produced. That is, it is not so easy to find a monocle on sale, it is much easier to order its manufacture from a working lens, or simply buy an already made one. If you are looking for a monocle, please note that there is monocle lens, but there is just a monocle (like binoculars, only for one eye).

When reworking Helios-44 and Helios-44m-4, the focusing distance scale no longer works, and the 58mm lens itself turns into something like a 70mm short telephoto lens. To be able to focus normally, a pair of extension rings must be attached to the lens. I use a Helios-44 monocle with a KP-42 \ N adapter. A lens with such a ring perfectly focuses at infinity, which cannot be achieved with a KP-42 \ N without a lens with a conventional lens.

Sample photos on a monocle... All photos are not processed, only reduced in size and imprinted. You can imagine what will become of the photographs if you also apply the simplest processing to them, such as converting the photo to grayscale, sepia, etc.

Human curiosity knows no bounds. We always want to look into the most distant corners of our world, into those corners that cannot be reached. It was this desire that pushed the person to create such optical instrument like binoculars.
Today, there are a huge number of binoculars, from the simplest to those that give the ability to see in the dark and record an image. The design of binoculars also differs depending on the optical systems. We will try to make a simple device that will allow us to take the first steps in observational astronomy.

For manufacturing you will need:

Glasses. In principle, any will do, but preferably with round lenses and low magnification.
Two identical magnifiers. They must be the same, otherwise looking through binoculars will be uncomfortable, because each magnifier will give a different magnification. It is advisable to use framed magnifiers ("watch"); they are easier to attach to the tube.
Sheets of whatman paper or other thick paper.
Scotch.
Black paint.
Matchbox.

Theory

Before we learn how to make binoculars with our own hands and start making them directly, we need to figure out something. The design of our device will be Kepler's system. As you know, the magnification of the telescope of this system - (K), is equal to the ratio of the focal length of the objective (we have glasses lenses) - (F), to the focal length of the eyepiece (magnifier) - (f).

That is, we get the following formula:

K = F / f

How to determine focal length? This is done simply: we direct the lens to the light source (electric lamp), substitute a white screen (sheet of paper) on the back of the lens, then gradually move the screen away from the lens and achieve a clear image of the light source on the sheet. By measuring the distance between the lens and the screen, we get the focal length. In practice, f is usually in the range of 0.03 to 0.09 meters, and F is in the range 0.3 to 0.9 meters. Based on this, we can conclude that the magnification of our homemade binoculars will be about 10 times.
When choosing lenses for the device, you can change the magnification in any direction, but you shouldn't chase too much magnification, the reason for this is a decrease in the luminosity and field of view of the binoculars.

How to make binoculars

Well, the theory seems to have been sorted out, the lenses have been picked up, the focal lengths have been calculated, now you can go directly to the assembly of the device.

We take two sheets of thick paper and paint them on one side with black paint. Then we twist two pipes out of them, we need to twist it so that the painted side is inside (this will exclude flare during observation). The length of each tube should be approximately equal to the focal length of the lens (F).

We put glasses on the tubes and tape the arms to the paper.
We make tubes for eyepieces (they must also be painted on the inside). We attach hour loupes to them. The eyepiece tubes should enter the objective tubes with little friction (force). Subsequently, when observing, they will need to be moved to focus the homemade binoculars.
Insert a box of matches between the tubes of the lenses and fix it with tape.

The device is ready. It should be noted right away that the image in it will be inverted. If binoculars are to be used for observing the stars, then this drawback does not play any role (after all, there are no concepts of "up" and "down" in space). But if you use the device for observing ground objects, then a turning system should be made. This is done by adding another lens to the design.

Wrapping system

Add a magnifying glass to each tube. We place them after the eyepiece, the distance is selected experimentally (it will come out about f * 2). During the experiment, you will most likely find interesting fact: if, after the turning effect appears, you move the lens further, then the magnification of the binoculars will begin to increase. Thus, it is possible to increase the magnification up to 50 times, with acceptable visibility.
If there are not enough parts for making binoculars, then you can make a telescope (its device is shown in the diagram above).

What are homemade binoculars capable of?

Although the resulting device is not so complex (in terms of the optical system), nevertheless, it significantly expands the capabilities of our eyes. If you look through it at the night sky, you can see millions of new stars that are not visible to the naked eye at all. A glance at Jupiter reveals its moons. Of course, the moon will reveal its secrets to you.
You can also observe sun spots. To do this, project the image of the binoculars onto an opaque screen.

Attention! Never look through binoculars / telescopes, in the sun this can lead to severe burns of the retina, which can subsequently cause blindness.

If you want to display the image on a computer monitor, we attach a webcam to the eyepiece, having previously detached its lens from it. The distance from the eyepiece to the camera matrix is selected experimentally.

In such a simple way, you can make simple binoculars with your own hands, which may lay the foundation for the design of more complex devices.

Optics / night vision devices

Homemade binoculars, of course, cannot compete with industrial designs. But if you want to please your child or surprise your friends, then binoculars made according to the proposed method will provide you with such an opportunity. In addition, it can even be used for its intended purpose. And the quality of the binoculars you make will depend only on your accuracy and patience.

Our binoculars will consist of two absolutely identical parts, connected by the width of a person's eyes. Each part of the binoculars consists of two cylindrical tubes of different diameters and lengths. Each tube contains a pair of lenses.

The principle of operation of the binoculars we create is very simple: rays of light coming from a distant point are refracted at the front lens, called the objective, and enter the rear lens, called the eyepiece. And already from the eyepiece they fall on the retina of our eyes. Our task will be to manufacture the necessary lenses and install them in our case.

How to make binocular lenses?

The basic element of our design will be a flat-convex collecting lens, which we will get from an ordinary burned-out incandescent light bulb.

To avoid injury, hands must first be protected by wearing gloves. Carefully, so as not to break our template and not get hurt, use an awl to remove the substance from the lamp base with which the central contact is fixed in the lamp. Remove the entire core from the flask, and you will have a blank for your future lens.

Attach or hang the resulting flask by the base. Slowly and carefully pour clear nitro-glue into the flask. It should fill the bottom of the flask about 15 to 20 millimeters from the bottom of the flask. In the absence of nitro glue, you can find a replacement for it in the form of plexiglass glue, and someone may have a transparent varnish on the farm. If the old photographic film is preserved, then it can also be used, having previously removed the emulsion from it, using acetone to dissolve it. It is necessary to pour in gradually, several times topping up the selected filler, each time letting it drain completely along the walls of the flask. This is necessary so that an arched surface does not form.

After the filler has completely hardened, the flask will have a lens that is flat on one side and convex on the other. The quality of the lens is greatly influenced by the quality of the glass. Unsuitable bulbs with a rough glass bulb or a bulb deformed during casting. It is also necessary to completely remove all inscriptions on the glass. There is an option of pouring the filler not on the bottom of the flask, but on its spherical side surface. As a rule, there are no inscriptions of any kind and a more regular spherical shape. With the help of glass breaker, you need to gradually break off the edges of the flask until you get the lens and carefully grind the flat surface of the lens with slow circular movements with a fine emery cloth. The degree of transparency of the lens depends on the thoroughness of processing. Do not pour too much filler into the flask. The amount of filler should be kept within reasonable limits as much as possible. This is due to the fact that, having different thermal expansion, in the future, the connected surfaces can warp and collapse.

It is necessary to make two plano-convex lenses of the same size. Next, you need to fold them together, turning their flat sides towards each other. Secure the lenses in this position using glue-wrapped paper wrapped around the lens circumference, metal circular clamps, and even tape or tape. By fixing the lenses in this position, we get the biconvex collecting lens that we need for the lens. Due to the relatively small curvature of the preform bulb, the resulting lens will have a large focal length.

We will do the same procedure using smaller bulbs. Bulbs from car headlights work very well. We will get two smaller diameter plano-convex lenses. Assemble a lens from these lenses. But remember that we need a bi-concave lens, unless of course you want to observe inverted images. To do this, gather the small lenses together with the curved sides inward and secure in this position. Thus, we will already have a lens. Again, due to the smaller diameter of the original bulb, this lens will have a shorter focal length.

How to determine the magnification of binoculars?

We can easily find out the focal lengths of the obtained lenses by placing a sheet of white paper under them and directing light onto this sheet through the lens. The distance to the lens at which the light beam is focused to a point is the focal length of the lens.

Now we can easily calculate the magnification of our future binoculars. For this, the focal length of the large lens is divided by the focal length of the small lens. The result obtained will mean the magnification factor of your binoculars.

How to make a binocular body?

Now we need to make the lens cases. These will be small tubes of different diameters. To make a tube, select a blank in the form of a round rod with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the manufactured lens. To make a lens, take a blank for a large lens and wrap around 2 - 3 layers of cardboard coated with glue to create a lens barrel. After fixing the resulting structure with electrical tape or tape, let the glue dry completely. Then you can already remove the workpiece inside. The resulting body should be painted black inside and out. Painting is necessary to avoid various light reflections. Install a large lens into the housing. To do this, use the adjusting rings. Strips cut from the same cardboard can serve as rings. They can be glued from the inside of the case in the place where the lens will be installed, until the lens fits snugly. You can independently come up with a method for attaching the lenses. This way you will get the lens tube of your binoculars. Doing the same for the eyepiece lens will give you an eyepiece tube. These tubes must be inserted into one another. It is imperative to ensure that the tubes are rigidly fixed relative to each other and that the eyepiece can move inside the objective tube. You will select the length of the tubes experimentally. To avoid possible mistakes it should be noted that the greatest joint length of the tubes obtained should be close to the sum of the focal lengths of the eyepiece and objective. When selecting, it can be advised to note the risk of where the eyepiece is in relation to the lens when looking into the distance. Also note the position of the eyepiece when looking at close objects. The lens you made will move within these limits.

Spectacle lenses are not bad stuff for a quality telescope. Before buying a good telescope, you can make one yourself using inexpensive and affordable tools. If you or your child wants to get carried away with astronomical observations, then building a homemade telescope will help you learn both the theory of optical devices and the practice of observation.

Despite the fact that the built refractor telescope from spectacle lenses will not show you much in the sky, the experience and knowledge gained will be invaluable. Then, if you are interested in telescopic engineering, you can build a more advanced reflector telescope, for example, Newton's systems (see other sections of our site).

There are three types of optical telescopes: refractors (a lens system as a lens), reflectors (a lens - a mirror), and catadioptric (mirror-lens). All modern largest telescopes are reflectors, their advantage is the absence of chromatism and possible large lens sizes, because the larger the lens diameter (its aperture), the higher its resolution, and more light is collected, and therefore the weaker astronomical objects are visible through the telescope , the higher their contrast, and the higher magnifications can be applied.

Refractors are used where high precision and contrast is required or in small telescopes. And now about the simplest refractor, with an increase of up to 50 times, in which you can see: the largest craters and mountains of the Moon, Saturn with its rings (like a ball with a ring, not a "dumpling"!), Bright satellites and the disk of Jupiter, some the stars are invisible to the naked eye.

Any telescope consists of a lens and an eyepiece, the lens builds an enlarged image of the object, which is viewed, then through the eyepiece. The distance between the objective and the eyepiece is equal to the sum of their focal lengths (F), and the magnification of the telescope is equal to Fob./Fok. In my case, it is about 1000/23 = 43 times, i.e. 1.72D with an aperture of 25 mm.

1 - eyepiece; 2 - main pipe; 3 - focusing tube; 4 - diaphragm; 5 - adhesive tape, which attaches the lens to the third tube, which can be easily removed, for example, to replace the diaphragm; 6 - lens.

As an objective we will take a blank lens for glasses (you can buy it in any "Optics") with a power of 1 diopter, which corresponds to a focal length of 1 m. simple device is not a bad option. As a body, I used three pipes made of thick paper, the first about a meter, the second ~ 20 cm. The short one is inserted into the long one.

Lens - the lens is attached to the third tube with the convex side outward, immediately behind it is a disk - a diaphragm with a hole in the center with a diameter of 25-30 mm - this is necessary, since a single lens, and even a meniscus, is a very poor lens and for obtaining tolerable quality, you have to sacrifice its diameter. The eyepiece is in the first tube. Focusing is done by changing the distance between the objective and the eyepiece, pushing in or out the second tube, it is convenient to focus on the moon. The objective and eyepiece should be parallel to each other and their centers should be strictly on the same line, the tube diameter can be taken, for example, 10 mm larger than the diaphragm hole diameter. In general, when making a case, everyone is free to do as he wants.

A few notes:
- do not install another lens after the first one in the lens, as it is advised on some sites - this will only bring light loss and deterioration in quality;
- do not also install the diaphragm deep in the pipe - this is not necessary;
- it is worth experimenting with the diameter of the diaphragm opening and choosing the optimal one;
- you can also take a 0.5 diopter lens (focal length 2 m) - this will increase the aperture opening and increase the magnification, but the tube length will become 2 meters, which can be inconvenient.
A single lens is suitable for a lens, the focal length of which is F = 0.5-1 m (1-2 diopters). It is not difficult to get it; it is sold at an optician's shop that has eyeglass lenses. Such a lens has a whole bunch of aberrations: chromatism, spherical aberration. It is possible to reduce their influence by using the lens aperture, that is, to reduce the inlet to 20 mm. What is the easiest way to do this? Cut a ring out of cardboard equal to the diameter of the pipe and cut that very inlet (20 mm) inside, and then put it in front of the lens almost close to the lens.

You can even assemble a lens from two lenses, in which it will be partially corrected chromatic aberration resulting from light dispersion. To eliminate it, take 2 lenses different shapes and material - collecting and scattering - with different dispersion coefficients. A simple option: buy 2 polycarbonate and glass spectacle lenses. In a glass lens the dispersion coefficient will be 58-59, and in polycarbonate it will be 32-42. the ratio is approximately 2: 3, then the focal lengths of the lenses are taken with the same ratio, for example +3 and -2 diopters. Adding these values together, we get a lens with a focal length of +1 diopter. We fold the lenses close; the collective should be the first to the lens. If a single lens, then it should be the convex side to the object.

How to make a telescope without an eyepiece ?! The eyepiece is the second important part of the telescope, without it we are nowhere. It is made from a magnifying glass with a focal distance of 4 cm. Although for the eyepiece it is better to use 2 plano-convex lenses (Ramsden eyepiece), setting them at a distance of 0.7f. The ideal option is to get the eyepiece out of the finished instruments (microscope, binoculars). How to determine the magnification size of a telescope? Divide the focal length of the objective (for example, F = 100cm) by the focal length of the eyepiece (for example, f = 5cm), you get 20x - the magnification of the telescope.

Then we need 2 tubes. Insert the objective into one, and the eyepiece into the other; then insert the first tube into the second. Which tubes should you use? You can make them yourself. Take a sheet of Whatman paper or wallpaper, but always a thick sheet. Roll the tube to fit the diameter of the lens. Then fold another sheet of thick paper, and place the eyepiece (!) Tightly into it. Then these tubes are tightly inserted into one another. If a gap appears, wrap the inner tube in several layers of paper until the gap disappears.

Now your telescope is ready. How to make a telescope for astronomical observations? You are simply blackening the inner cavity of each pipe. Since we are making a telescope for the first time, we will take a simple method of blackening. Just paint the inside of the pipes with black paint.The effect of the first self-made telescope will be overwhelming. Surprise your family with your design skills!
Often the geometric center of the lens does not coincide with the optical one, so if there is an opportunity to grind the lens from the master, do not neglect it. But in any case, an uncut spectacle lens blank will do. Lens diameter - objective of great importance for our telescope does not. Because Spectacle lenses are highly susceptible to various obberations, especially the edges of the lens, then we will diaphragm the lens with a diaphragm of about 30 mm in diameter. But for observing different objects in the sky, the diaphragm diameter is selected empirically and can vary from 10 mm to 30 mm.

For an eyepiece, of course, it is better to use an eyepiece from a microscope, level or binoculars. But in this example, I used a lens from a soap dish camera. The focal length at my eyepiece is 2.5 cm. In general, any positive lens with a small diameter (10-30mm), with a short focus (20-50mm) is suitable as an eyepiece.

Determining the focal length of the eyepiece yourself is easy. To do this, point the eyepiece at the Sun and place a flat screen behind it. We will zoom in and out of the screen until we get the smallest and brightest image of the Sun. The distance between the center of the eyepiece and the image is the focal length of the eyepiece.

Sometimes it happens that people begin to see poorly, that is, their vision is lost. And no matter how much you want, but sooner or later you have to put on glasses. Everyone knows that glasses are one of the most common devices that are designed to improve or correct a person's vision, and they also protect the eyes from harmful effects. Glasses are used by people whose vision deviates from the norm, and this does not depend on the type of deviation.

Glasses composition

Typically, all types of glasses consist of the following:

Lenses.
Frame frames.
The "bridge" of the frame.
Temples or temples.
Nose support.
Hinge or lock.

Monocle is glasses for correcting one eye

There are cases when one eye sees poorly, and it needs to be corrected; for this, an optical device has been developed. This optical device became a luxury item back in the 19th century, and only wealthy people could afford it. Nowadays, you rarely meet anyone with such a device. "What kind of optical device is this?" - you ask. The answer is simple: this device is called a monocle.

A monocle is one of the types of glasses for correcting or improving vision. Its component is a lens, most often with a frame and an attachment chain so that you can attach it to clothing. Also, the chain was necessary in order not to lose the monocle glasses. The monocle itself is small in size, fits perfectly into the eye socket. In general, one eye cannot hold the glasses, so you just have to be surprised or raise an eyebrow - how they fall out of the hollow.

The emergence of the monocle

The monocle appeared in the 19th century, initially this optical device looked like a lens with a handle. Most often it was used to read the text, it was held directly in front of the text itself or in front of the eyes. Soon the handle lost its function, because it became common to clamp the monocle with the muscles of the face.

Monocle history

The monocle is a symbol of retrograde, which has left a colorful imprint not only in literature, but also in fine arts... The first adherent of the new fashion is the famous writer Emile de Girardin. Prince de Sagan introduced a turtle-framed lorgnette with a wide moire band, and Prince de Beaufremont wore a monocle on the brim of his hat. French journalist and writer Orellien Scholl wore a rimless monocle. But the famous used the device so that it was possible to examine unfamiliar men, this led them to bewilderment and delight, because such behavior was beyond the bounds of decency. The monocle was also used by the poets Jean Morreas and Jean Lorrain, the writer Joris-Carl Huysmans. Although the latter preferred pince-nez most of all, there are still photographs where he is depicted with a monocle.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the English minister Neville Chamberlain became famous, he became famous for his monocle. However, many believed that they did not suit him, but he still continued to wear them. Currently, the model is "used" by the fictional character Eustace Tilly, he is a real dandy and a mascot famous magazine The New Yorker. The first time Tilly appeared on the cover of this magazine was in 1925. During this period, the owners of the monocle were already ridiculed, but, apparently, this does not interfere with the life of the fictional hero to this day.

Monocle in Russia

In Russia, representatives of various literary movements began to wear the monocle. Baron Nikolai Frangel regularly wore the device and did not take it off. After the end of the revolution, the monocle began to be called a sign of the old regime and bourgeoisness. Even artists began to wear it, the people who were depicted on the posters also had a lens inserted.

A monocle is an optical device that became popular at the same time as the pince-nez. These two types of glasses were popular before the First World War. They were massively worn on the face, most often by men. The monocle was very popular among guards officers, especially German ones. The device received the maximum popularity in Germany and Russian Empire... When the war began, the monocle ceased to be popular in Russia.

Mikhail Bulgakov is considered the last fan of such a device. It is generally accepted that the monocle is a shocking symbol of bourgeoisness for Bulgakov. Mikhail Afanasyevich bought it after receiving his first fee. Immediately after the acquisition, he was photographed with him. After which he gave this photo to all his friends and acquaintances. Also, the monocle is associated with one of the best symbols of life in Europe in the late 19th - early 20th century.

Design

A monocle is a single optical lens that is housed in a thin frame with an accompanying cord or chain. The lace was hung on the lapel or on the button of the jacket. The monocle lens was well attached to the frame, and it could not fall out of it.

Wearing methods

If the monocle was not used, then it was carried in a vest pocket. If it was used, it was inserted into the eye socket and clamped between the eyebrow and cheek. Historians note that due to the muscular effort, the face became special. Such a face became the image of an aristocratic person. Monocle wearers invented a kind of acrobatics, they inserted the device into the eye socket and quickly dropped it. It was a kind of entertainment for connoisseurs of monocle.

Pince-nez

Pince-nez are glasses without temples that cling to the ears, they were kept on the nose by clamping a spring on the bridge of the nose. For the first time, pince-nez became known in the 16th century, but they became one of the fashionable accessories and items of regular use only in the 19th century, along with a monocle. Pince-nez is translated from French as pincer - "pinch", and nez - "nose". The first pince-nez were round in shape, over time they acquired an oval shape. In general, the 19th century is considered to be a rich time for a variety of accessories. The only difficult requirement for choosing a pince-nez was that, in addition to choosing a lens, it was necessary to carefully select the frame so that it would fit perfectly in size. If the frame was chosen incorrectly, then the person's nose became sore, but a good vision correction took place. Then they had to treat their nose to avoid this, people tried to choose the right frame.

Pince-nez and Chekhov

Many believe that pince-nez is an integral part of the image of Anton Pavlovich Chekhov, but he has it appeared in the very last years. The writer began to wear it in 1897. After Chekhov's serious illness, many doctors examined him. The optometrist discovered astigmatism, plus everything he had a difference in diopters of one and a half units, so the lenses were selected for a long time. The brother of Anton Pavlovich wore pince-nez all his life, so the writer often tried it on. It turns out that Chekhov saw his vision problems, but for some reason was in no hurry to get rid of them. Once he still had to go to a doctor, they hardly picked up the lenses, but from that moment Anton Chekhov began to wear pince-nez. Now Chekhov's pince-nez can be seen in his museums, it is kept there to this day.

Photographer and monocle

Nowadays, many photographers use a monocle, because it is a simple lens that consists of a single positive lens. Exist classic look, which was proposed by William Wollaston at the beginning of the 19th century for the use of a camera - obsura. This lens looks like a concave and convex meniscus that curls outward towards the subject. With this lens, you can change the astigmatism and make the field curvature less in the image. This is due to the negative astigmatism of the anterior surface.

The monocle as a lens has a low aperture ratio and a small angle of view. A photograph taken with such a lens is usually low-contrast with a low sharpness decreasing towards the edge. Although the sharpness can be increased. IN modern world use a creative, soft focus lens, which is most often used for portraits, landscape photography, as well as still lifes. Modern photographers are very fond of using a monocle for their photographs. Indeed, thanks to him, you can make very beautiful pictures that will only delight the eye.