In what century did the first looms appear. Who invented the loom? The emergence of the loom

Weaving is an ancient craft, the history of which begins with the period of the primitive communal system and accompanies humanity at all stages of development. A prerequisite for weaving is the availability of raw materials. At the stage of weaving, these were strips of animal skin, grass, reeds, vines, young shoots of bushes and trees. The first types of wicker clothing and footwear, bedding, baskets and nets were the first weaving products. It is believed that weaving preceded spinning, since it existed in the form of weaving even before man discovered the spinning ability of the fibers of some plants, among which were wild nettle, "cultivated" flax and hemp. The developed small-scale cattle breeding provided various types of wool and fluff.

Of course, none of the types of fibrous materials could last long. The oldest fabric in the world is linen fabric, found in 1961 during the excavation of an ancient settlement near the Turkish village of Chatal Huyuk and made around 6500 BC. It is interesting that until recently this fabric was considered woolen and only a careful microscopic examination of more than 200 samples of old woolen fabrics from Central Asia and Nubia showed that the fabric found in Turkey is linen.

During the excavations of the settlements of the lakeside inhabitants of Switzerland, a large number of fabrics made of bast fibers and wool were discovered. This served as further evidence that weaving was known to people of the Stone Age (Paleolithic). The settlements were opened in the winter of 1853-1854. That winter was so cold and dry that the level of Switzerland's alpine lakes dropped sharply. As a result, local residents saw the ruins of pile settlements covered with centuries-old silt. During the excavation of settlements, whole line cultural layers, the lowest of which are dated stone age... Were found coarse, but quite suitable for use fabrics made of bast fibers, bast and wool. Some of the fabrics were ornamented with stylized human figures painted in natural colors.

In the 70s of the twentieth century, with the development of underwater archeology, studies of settlements in a vast alpine region on the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland began again. Settlements date back from 5000 to 2900 BC. NS. Many remains of fabrics were found, including twill weave, balls of threads, reeds of wooden looms, wooden spindles for spinning wool and flax, and various needles. All finds indicate that the inhabitants of the settlements were engaged in weaving themselves.
In ancient Egypt, a horizontal frame was preferred. A man with such a frame worked without fail standing. From the words "stand, become" and the words "camp", "machine" came from. It is curious that weaving was considered the highest of the handicraft arts in Ancient Greece. Even noble ladies did it. In the famous work "Iliad" by Homer, for example, it is mentioned that Helen, the wife of the king of Sparta Menelaus, because of whom, according to legend, the Trojan War broke out, received a golden spinner as a gift - a weight for a spindle, which gave it a large inertia of rotation.

The first fabrics were very simple in structure.

... As a rule, they were made with plain weave. However, quite early they began to produce ornamented fabrics, using as decorative elements religious symbols, simplified figures of people and animals. The ornament was applied to the harsh fabrics by hand. Later they began to decorate fabrics with embroidery. In the historical period of the last centuries of Christianity, the type of tapestry weaving on looms gained popularity, which appeared in Europe in the Middle Ages. This type of weaving made popular carpets that were woven both pile and smooth. Tapestry weaving in Western Europe developed from the 11th to the 17th century, when the Gobelin brothers' workshop appeared in France in 1601, who made the woven fabric smooth with rep weaving threads, creating an original pattern of the play of threads on the material. The workshop was noticed by the French king himself, who bought it to work for the royal court and wealthy nobles, thereby providing the workshop with a constant income. The workshop became famous. And such a woven material has since been called a tapestry, similar to a mat.
A loom is a mechanism used to produce various textile fabrics from threads, an auxiliary or main tool of a weaver. There are a huge number of types and models of machines: manual, mechanical and automatic, shuttle and shuttleless, multiple-shed and single-shed, flat and round. Weaving looms are also distinguished by the types of fabric produced - woolen and silk, cotton, iron, glass and others.
The loom consists of a loom, a shuttle and a hip, a beam and a roller. In weaving, two types of threads are used - the warp thread and the weft thread. The base thread is wound on a beam, from which it is unwound in the process of work, bending around the roller, which performs a guiding function, and passing through the lamellas (holes) and through the eyes of the heddles of the heddle, move upward for the throat. A weft thread passes through the throat. Thus, the fabric appears on the machine. This is the principle of action loom.

At the end of the XIX - middle of the XX century. weaving in Moldova was a widespread female occupation with deep traditions. Hemp and wool served as the material for weaving; flax was used much less. From the middle of the XIX century. purchased cotton thread came into use. The process of preparing the fiber for spinning was lengthy. Yarn processing and weaving were carried out using homemade tools. Specifically Moldavian was the spinning method on the move, in which a spinning wheel with an elongated shaft was used, reinforced by a spinning wheel at the belt. A peasant family independently produced various fabrics necessary for sewing clothes, used for household needs and for decorating the interiors of the dwelling. Moldovans weaved many towels on a horizontal loom ("cabinet") using different kinds technician (brane, elective, mortgage). Some towels were indispensable attributes of wedding, childbirth and funeral rites, others were used for household needs, and others were used to decorate the interior of the dwelling. Ornaments on towels for ritual or decorative purposes were a rhythmic repetition of one motif of a geometric or plant character.

Carpet weaving
The centuries-old traditions of Moldovan carpet weaving have led to the emergence of an original type of carpet, made on a vertical weaving mill using the kilim technique. As a rule, women were engaged in carpet weaving, and men participated only in preparatory work. The ability to weave carpets was highly valued among the people. Girls began to learn this craft from 10-11 years old. The dowry of each bride, among many other items necessary in everyday life, necessarily included carpets. They testified about the prosperity in the girl's family, about the hard work of the future mistress. The process of making the carpet was extremely laborious: carpets and rugs of two to three kilograms of wool were woven in two to three weeks, and a large carpet of 10-15 kilograms of wool was made in three to four months, working together.
Decor of Moldovan carpets
The Moldovan lint-free carpet is characterized by a clear composition and figured balance, which does not imply strict symmetry. Skillful use of natural dyes by Moldovan carpet weavers determined the color richness of the carpet. The light background of carpets, characteristic of the late 18th - early 19th centuries, was then replaced by a range of black, brown, green and red-pink tones. The pattern was built on the basis of geometric and plant motifs; less often, zoomorphic and anthropomorphic images were found in the carpet compositions. The types of Moldovan carpets, their ornamentation and terminology differed depending on the place of their existence.

Moldavian carpet weaving reached its peak in the 18th - early 19th centuries. One of characteristic features Moldavian carpets had a variety of ornamental motives. The most common floral patterns depicting trees, flowers, bouquets, fruits, as well as geometric patterns - rhombuses, squares, triangles. Less common are images of human figures, animals and birds. In the distant past, ornamental motifs had a certain symbolic character. One of the most common motives was the "tree of life", representing the strength and power of nature, its eternal development and movement. The image of a female figure was considered a symbol of fertility. Over the years, the original meaning of many common ornamental compositions has been lost.

The size and purpose of the carpet, the nature of the motifs, the color scheme, the central pattern and the border determined its ornamental composition. One of the most common techniques was the alternation of floral or geometric motifs along the entire length of the carpet. On many carpets, the central pattern consisted of a repetition of one or two motifs in a vertical or horizontal direction. Small motifs-signs (year of manufacture, initials of the owner or carpet weaver, household items, etc.) could be located on the areas of the carpet that were not filled with basic patterns. An important role in the decorative solution of the carpet was played by the border, which differed from the central pattern in both color and ornament. Usually Moldavian carpets had two-, three- or four-sided borders. For a long time, the ornamental motives and compositions of the carpet had names. In the XIX century. the most common were such names as "Rainbow", "Loaf", "Walnut Leaf", "Vase", "Bouquet", "Spider", "Cockerels". When creating a carpet, Moldovan craftswomen always solved in a new way a seemingly already known composition or ornamental motive. Therefore, each of their products is unique and unrepeatable.
Traditional dyes
Another important feature of Moldovan carpets is their amazing colors. The traditional Moldavian carpet is characterized by calm and warm tones, harmony of colors. Previously, for dyeing wool, solutions made from flowers, plant roots, tree bark, and leaves were used. Scumpia, dandelion flowers, oak bark, walnut and onion peels were often used to obtain dyes. Carpet makers knew how to determine the time of collecting plants, knew the best combinations of plant raw materials, were well versed in the methods of dyeing wool. Natural dyes gave the old folk carpet extraordinary expressiveness. The most common were brown, green, yellow, pink, blue. If any motive was repeated in the carpet composition, then each time it was performed in a different color, which gave it undoubted originality. With the advent in the second half of the XIX century. aniline dyes, the color spectrum of Moldovan carpets has expanded, but the artistic value has slightly decreased, since pastel, calm tones have given way to bright, sometimes devoid of a sense of proportion, chemical dyes.
Moldavian carpet in the XX century

During the twentieth century. carpet weaving continued to develop. The leading ornamental compositions in the countryside continued to be "Bouquet" and "Wreath", bordered with garlands of flowers combined with geometric motifs. The colors of modern carpets have become brighter and richer. Some plots were borrowed from patterns of factory fabrics. Carpet-making of other nations, as well as samples of factory carpets, both domestic and imported, had a certain influence on the creativity of Moldavian carpet weavers. Despite the improvement of a number of technological processes on vertical weaving mills, the main work of rural carpet weavers, as before, was done by hand. Carpet weaving is most widespread in the Moldovan villages of Baraboi, Plop, Krishkautsi, Livedeni, Badichany, Petrena, Tabora and others. Also in Moldova there are Ukrainian villages, such as Moshana, Maramonovka and others, where carpet weaving is also widespread.

Fabrics and weaving have been known to mankind since time immemorial, shrouded in antiquity. The history of the emergence of tissue is the result of great human labor to improve the production process: from hand-woven to the advanced technologies of the global textile industry. The inventions of ancient peoples laid the foundation for the weaving tradition, which is widely used in our time.

The history of the fabric: how it all began

Humanity needed to protect its body from cold and heat even at the dawn of its existence. The first materials for primitive clothing were animal skins, shoots and leaves of plants which the ancient inhabitants weaved by hand. Historians know that already in the period of VIII-III millennia BC mankind knew the practical properties of flax and cotton.

In Ancient Greece and Rome grown, from which fibers were extracted and the first coarse fabrics were woven.
IN Ancient India first began to produce, which were generously decorated with bright printed designs.
Silk fabrics are historical the property of China.
And the first woolen fibers and, accordingly, fabrics from them, arose in the days of ancient Babylon, in the IV millennium BC.

Weaving history: time machine

The history of weaving dates back to Asia and Ancient Egypt, where the invention of the weaving machine took place. This apparatus was a frame with several slats on which the warp threads were stretched. Weft threads were woven to them by hand. How the first machine works survived in today's weaving industry. However, the design itself has gone through many changes.

Much later, in XI century AD the horizontal loom was invented on which the warp threads were stretched horizontally. The structure of the unit was more complex. The main parts were fixed on the large wooden frame of the machine:

3 rollers;
2 foot pedals;
vertical frames of the “comb” of the reed;
shuttle with thread.

Our ancestors began to mechanize the machine in the 16th-18th centuries, and the greatest success was crowned with invention in 1733 of the so-called aircraft machine by J. Kay. Half a century later, the Briton E. Cartwright invented a mechanical loom, the design of which was further modified and improved. By the end of the 19th century, there appeared mechanical machines with automatic shuttle replacement.

And already in the XX century, shuttleless machines were invented, similar to our modern models.

Types of looms

As it became clear from the previous section, weaving looms are shuttle and shuttleless more modern.

The types of shuttleless looms are distributed according to the weaving principle of the weft.

Around 1550 BC in Egypt, weavers noticed that everything could be improved and the spinning process could be made easier. A method was invented for separating the threads - pemez. Remez is a rod made of wood, with even-numbered warp threads tied to it, and the odd threads hung loosely. The work thus became twice as fast, but still remained very laborious.

The search for simplification of obtaining fabric continued, and about 1000 BC. the ATO loom was invented, where the hooks were already separating the even and odd warp threads. The work went ten times faster. At this stage, it was no longer weaving, but weaving, it became possible to obtain a variety of weaves of threads. Further, new changes were made to the loom, for example, the movement of the Remez was controlled by the pedals, and the weaver's hands remained free, but fundamental changes in weaving technique began in the 18th century.

In 1580, Anton Moller improved the weaving machine - now it was possible to produce several pieces of fabric on it. In 1678, the French inventor de Gennes created a new machine, but he did not receive much distribution.

And in 1733, the Englishman John Kay created the first mechanical shuttle for a hand-held machine. Now there was no need to manually throw the shuttle, and now it was possible to get wide strips of matter, the machine was already operated by one person.

In 1785, Edmund Cartwright improved the foot-operated lathe. In 1791, the Cartwright machine was improved by Gorton. The inventor introduced a device for suspending the shuttle baton in the throat. In 1796, Robert Miller of Glazko created a device for moving material through a ratchet wheel. Until the end of the 19th century, this invention remained in the weaving machine. And Miller's method of laying the shuttle worked for over 60 years.

It must be said that the Cartwright loom was at first very imperfect and did not pose a threat to hand weaving.

In 1803, Thomas Johnson of Stockport built the first sizing machine, completely freeing artisans from the sizing operation on the machine. John Todd at the same time introduced a pulley roller into the machine design, which simplified the process of lifting the threads. And in the same year, William Horrocks received a patent for a mechanical loom. Horrocks did not touch the wooden bed of the old hand-held machine.

In 1806, Peter Marland introduced the slow motion of the batan when laying the shuttle. In 1879, Werner von Siemens developed the electric loom. And only in 1890 after that Northrop created an automatic shuttle charging and there came a real breakthrough in factory weaving. In 1896, the same inventor brought the first automatic machine to the market. Then a loom without a shuttle appeared, which increased labor productivity many times over. Now the machines continue to improve in the direction computer technology and automatic control... But all the most important for the development of weaving was done by the humanities and inventor Cartwright.

Almost everything we are wearing is woven from threads. Cotton, wool, linen or artificial. And the threads are turned into linen with the help of a loom. And it is clear that without this wonderful device, we would look somehow completely different. Let's pay tribute to the mechanism that in many ways weaved our history ...

The emergence of looms

Looms appeared in ancient times. Among the many peoples among the many peoples of Europe, Asia and America. The first loom was vertical. It was a simple frame with warp threads stretched over it. The lower ends of these threads hung loosely almost to the ground. So that they do not get tangled, they were pulled with suspensions. The weaver held a large shuttle with thread in his hands and bound the warp. This method literally repeated the weaving technique and required a lot of time. Then the ancient masters noticed that this process could be simplified. If it was possible to simultaneously lift all the odd or even warp threads, the craftsman could immediately pull the shuttle through the entire warp. This is how a primitive thread dividing device - Remez - was invented. At first, a simple wooden rod served as a remez, to which the lower ends of the warp threads were attached through one. Pulling on the remez, the master immediately separated all the even threads from the odd ones, and then with one throw he threw the shuttle over the entire base. True, during the reverse movement, it was necessary to go through all the even threads one by one again. At the same time, it was impossible to simply lead the second remez, because the first would get in his way. Then laces were tied to the weights at the lower ends of the threads. The other ends of the laces were attached to the planks, odd to one, odd to the other. Now the peremes did not interfere with mutual work. Pulling first one, then another, the master sequentially separated the even, then the odd threads. The work has accelerated tenfold. The manufacture of fabrics ceased to be weaving and became weaving itself.

Now, with the help of laces, it was possible to use not two, but more remes. As a result, it became possible to obtain not a single color, but an ornamented fabric. The first evidence of the appearance of machines with loads refers to the region of Anatolia and Syria. There were found cargoes dating back to 7-6 millennium BC. The earliest depictions of a loom and working weavers are found on the walls of the tomb of Hemotep in Egypt. These drawings are about 4000 years old.

Peoples South America used a machine with weights around the thousandth year BC. Such a machine was also known in ancient Hellas. He was often depicted on Greek vases from the 6th-5th centuries BC.

In the following centuries, various improvements were made to the weaving machine. For example, they began to control the movement of the heels with the help of pedals, leaving the weaver's hands free. However, the principled weaving technique did not change until the 18th century.

The origin of the simplest horizontal machine is lost in the mists of time. In the 11th century, an improved design appeared in China, which has come down to us with minor changes. The warp threads on such a machine were stretched horizontally, hence its name. On a vertical machine, the width of the canvas did not exceed half a meter, and in order to obtain wider strips of fabric, they had to be sewn together.

In turn, the horizontal machine not only increased the speed of fabric production, but also allowed an unlimited increase in the width of the resulting fabric. Already in the 12th century, a complex loom came to Italy through Damascus and was further improved there. For example, with the help of a hanging comb, they began to align the threads.

Mechanical weaving machine

In 1272, a method of mechanical twisting of threads was invented in Bologna, which for the next three hundred years was kept in the strictest confidence by the local weavers. But the task of inventing a mechanical loom seemed insurmountable until the 18th century. Even Leonardo Da Vinci was unable to invent a mechanical loom. It was only in 1733 that a young English mechanic, John Kay, made the first mechanical shuttle for a loom. In Russia, such a shuttle was called an airplane, because the invention eliminated the need to manually throw the shuttle and made it possible to produce wide fabrics on a machine operated by a single weaver.

At that time, Kay's invention did not attract the support of either the English industrialists or the weavers, and the London Society of Arts and Industry generally stated that it did not know a single person who would understand how to use these shuttles.

Kay's work was continued by Oxford graduate, Anglican church minister and poet Edmund Cartwright. In 1785 he received a patent for a mechanical foot-operated loom and built a spinning and weaving mill in Yorkshire with twenty such devices. Already by the thirties of the 19th century, a lot of technical innovations were added to the Cartwright machine. There were more and more such machines in factories, and they were serviced by an ever smaller number of workers. In Russia, the first mechanical weaving looms appeared already at the end of the 18th century. In 1798, the Aleksandrovskaya Manufactory, the first textile factory in Russia, was created in St. Petersburg.

The most time consuming when working on machine tools was changing and charging the shuttle. In addition, the weaver had to constantly monitor the breakage of the warp thread and stop the machine to eliminate deficiencies. It was only after James Northrop invented a way to automatically charge the shuttle in 1890 that factory weaving made a real breakthrough. As early as 1894, Northropa developed and launched the first automatic loom on the market. This was followed by a serious competitor to the automatic machine - a weaving machine without a shuttle at all, which greatly increased the possibility of servicing several devices by one person.

With the advent of the mechanical weaving machine, a new era began. If the Middle Ages was the time of a lone craftsman, now weaving has become the first sphere of mass production in history. Weaving workshops began to grow into factories. The rapid development of the cotton industry has caused a rapid influx of people into weaving. This craft was taught in prisons, homes for the poor, orphanages.

All this gave rise to those social changes in European society that the classics of Marxism described in such detail - the alienation of the worker from his labor, the sweatshop system, strikes, lockouts and other methods of class struggle. Indeed, we see that long before historical materialism, weavers were at the forefront of the struggle of the working people for their rights. Here you have a strike of weavers in Flanders in 1245, and a weaving rebellion in the Flemish city of Ypree in 1280, and the Ludica pogroms of weaving machines of the 18th century. Then came the Eleonian uprisings of the thirties of the 19th century, and the first revolutionary councils in Ivanovo in 1905. All this was the work of weavers. So, if you like, the loom is the main engine of the class struggle, if there really was one.

BUROVA EKATERINA, LEBEDEVA LOVE,

pupils of the 9th grade of the MOU "Vasilievskaya secondary school".

supervisor TOLMACHEVA G. M.,

Lecturer at the Vasilievskaya Secondary School.

EXHIBITION OF THE SCHOOL LOCAL STUDIES MUSEUM -

LOOM

There are fewer and fewer people in the countryside who could tell about the folk crafts of their ancestors, and even more so show how they did it and teach us. Therefore, our generation must have time to communicate with people who remember what our grandfathers and grandmothers did, because tomorrow it will be too late, there simply will not be these people either.

The main sources used were:

Exhibit of the school museum - loom

Memories of Ivan Alexandrovich Bashilin

To describe the history of the emergence of weaving, we used Internet resources, information from encyclopedias.

A new exhibit appeared in our school local history museum 12 years ago - a loom, which was presented by the Bashilin family. For a long time he lay in the attic, and when Ivan Alexandrovich Bashilin learned that the activists of the school museum were collecting household items, the tools handed over the machine to the museum. It was disassembled. Petunina Tamara Mikhailovna, chairman of Vasilievsky veterans, helped to assemble the loom rural settlement... We didn't have an exhibit, so we decided to find out the history of the loom.

1. THE ORIGIN OF THE WEAVING MACHINE

Weaving originated in the Neolithic era and became widespread during the primitive communal system. This was the primordial occupation of the female population. Every peasant family had a weaving mill on which women made homespun linen. Clothes, sheets, towels, tablecloths and other household items were sewn from it. The loom is one of the inventions that appeared among different peoples independently of each other. Asia can be considered the ancestor of weaving, it was there that the first loom was discovered. The raw materials for the threads were animal wool and fibers of various plants, as well as natural silk. Weaving was known not only to the peoples of Europe and Asia. In America, the ancient Incas already knew him. The art of weaving invented by them has survived today among the Indians from South America.

Looms began to be used throughout Asia. Weavers quickly learned to decorate their products with different patterns that were woven from multi-colored threads. The yarn was often dyed at home in different colors, and then patterned fabrics turned out to be especially elegant. At the same time, man began to paint tissues with the sap of various plants. This is how weaving became an art.

The loom is one of the most ancient tools of human labor. The hand loom with a vertical warp appeared in about 5-6 thousand years BC. The first loom was vertical. This is a simple frame on which the warp threads are stretched. The weaver held a large shuttle with thread in his hands and bound the warp. It was difficult to work on such a loom, since the threads had to be sequentially handled, the threads often broke, the fabric could only be made thick.

In the 11th century, the horizontal loom was invented. The warp threads are stretched horizontally (hence the name of the loom).

Its main part is a large wooden frame on which the machine parts are fixed: three rollers; two foot pedals; vertical frames of the “comb” of the reed; hook with normal thread. Such a loom, with minor changes, has survived to this day and has survived in some houses. In many peasant houses of the Iverovsky volost of the Staritsky district of the Tver province, as in other districts, there was such a loom.

Then the mechanical loom was invented. Nowadays, modern looms are powered by electricity, they have become more complex and varied. But hand weaving is still alive and is a traditional type of folk craft. Friedrich Engels considered the invention of the loom to be one of the most important achievements of man at the first stage of his development. In the feudal period, the design of the weaving machine was improved, devices were created to prepare the yarn for weaving. The first attempts to mechanize the weaving process date back to the 16-18 centuries. Among them, the most significant was the invention of the so-called plane shuttle by James Kay in 1733.

At the end of the 18th century in Great Britain, Cartwright invented a mechanical weaving machine, in the design of which various improvements were subsequently made. Russian inventors also made a significant contribution to the improvement of the design of the weaving machine: D.S. Lepyoshkin, who patented in 1844 a mechanical self-stop when the weft thread breaks; S. Petrov, who in 1853 proposed the most perfect system of the combat mechanism for laying the shuttle, and others. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, machines with automatic shuttle change were created. But hand weaving is still alive and is a traditional type of folk craft.

2. FROM MEMORIES

youngest son Bashilin Ivan Alexandrovich(died in October 2010) we learned that the Bashilins' family consisted of a father - Alexander Yakovlevich Bashilin, born in 1902, mother - Bashilina (nee Zhuravleva) Maria Andreevna, born in 1903, five sons and one daughter. All natives of the village of Vasilievskoye, Staritskiy district, Tver province. Currently, no one is left alive.

Alexander Yakovlevich worked as chairman of the village council, Maria Andreevna in field cultivation. During the Great Patriotic War, my father fought in the Rzhev area, was wounded and was sent to a hospital in the city of Podolsk. Killed in 1943 with a direct hit from a shell while distributing food to soldiers. Alexander Yakovlevich was buried near Smolensk. Maria Andreevna went on foot to the city of Podolsk to see her father. Maria Andreevna died in 1981. She worked on a collective farm all her life.

Ivan Aleksandrovich does not remember how the loom got into the house, he says that many of his fellow villagers had such looms. On long winter evenings, my mother weaved rugs and towels on it. She wove rugs only for herself and her relatives.

Maria Andreevna did not do work for the sale. The machine, transferred to the school museum, is in good condition and can be used in work. The dimensions of the loom are as follows: length - 103 cm, width - 77 cm, height - 134 cm.

The trouble is that there are no such craftswomen who would teach us this skill.

Lebedeva Lyubov conducts an excursion for younger schoolchildren.

So, having studied the available documents and related materials, we learned biographical information about the Bashilins family, who donated a loom to the school museum. Unfortunately, now there is no way to find out who made this machine and under what circumstances it appeared in the house.

However, there are several clues that can lead us further. So, for example, to find the neighbors who remained alive, fellow villagers, since many left for Moscow and some for St. Petersburg. Perhaps someone will respond to our request?

We think that our work is not complete. And with the information that we managed to collect, we will share with classmates, children from other classes, parents and guests of the school.

Loom: in the old days and today.

Loom- a mechanism for making various textile fabrics from threads, an auxiliary or main tool of a weaver. There are a huge number of types and models of machines: manual, mechanical and automatic, shuttle and shuttleless, multiple-shed and single-shed, flat and round. Weaving looms are also distinguished by the types of fabric produced - woolen and silk, cotton, iron, glass and others.

A friend looked around in our Moscow room.
- Where is the loom? You wrote to me about him ...
“Here it is,” I pointed to a wooden structure in the corner between the window and the closet.

- So you weaved these rugs on it ??

In the 60s of the twentieth century, rugs were woven in many villages on looms, krosna, which were inherited from grandmothers and great-grandmothers. Someone's husband / uncle / grandfather is a jack of all trades and a bright head, he made a machine. Or ordered from the masters. And where did the craftsmen themselves learn to make looms for weaving?

In 1911, the book "An Improved Handloom" was published. Author I. V. Levinsky. And in 1924 - "How to build a loom and weave simple fabrics." The author is engineer Dobrovolsky V.A.

and a page from it

The style is "clerical", about which K. Chukovskaya wrote angrily, but the drawings and drawings are clear.
Loom (cross). 1930 year.

Weaving is an ancient traditional craft of the inhabitants of the Vodly village and the surrounding villages.
Author - N. V. Ulyanova. School ethnographic museum of the village. Vodla, Pudozhsky district of Karelia. From the memories of old-timers.

When this is woven with strings. Cracked, and bloomed alder from a tree, drank bark, flax twigs boiled. They will paint this, and then ... oh, and then, as the paint was taken out, the swirls would be. And so they smeared them in paint and kataly, they did this, motley 's work. They will make such skirts, but you cannot buy them in a store. Linen skirts, they kept them for holidays. Sarafans, but linen, here before this place there were, here there were strings. The lace was tied. I remember that this little pest was, in a cage, but ours did not have pest. The grandmother and the mother had a cloth, and the gypsies stole it. And our grandmother and my mother would have had a polocents, so now it’s not so, well, this, ours, navyshivany. And such material was woven on the hands, the Reds sewed, they did it on the sack, and with me, during the war, these skirts were woven. We also sewed blankets, made, sewn and wrap these blankets. They already felt sorry for the rug. When I went to work in the youth at 45, there was no dress on their heads. You will put some kind of blooper on your head.

Half a do it. And there, for example, in the youth you are vy'nositsa, duck vy'rvash, and on a tangle wot: the shirt is torn al here the pants are ragged, they will cut it out, but this one. Then, after all, they kept little, less robes, and they will weave them and sew them in the villages. Blood was thrown in like this, but whoever is richer, duck and threw on the floor.

Egozinka brought up her aunt's memories of her great-grandmother Maria.

"These rugs were woven by my grandmother Masha for me(for aunt Egozinka ) in the dowry. I lived with her when I was 16-17 years old. And after observing, apparently, that the gentlemen were already pounding the threshold, she set to work. I remember how the loom was standing by the window (my grandmother called it KROSNA), how pleasant it was to touch its smooth-polished wooden surfaces. I remember the word - nitchenka. And below there were pedals ... I was weaving tarsus on some kind of manual machine - these are beautiful sticks with patterns. Grandmother picked colors, calling them pistachio, azure, fawn ... I remember the silence in the room, my grandmother's quiet singing. She deftly throws the shuttle and slams it with the frame (BERDO). Walkers are knocking on the wall, an old cat, Muska, purrs ... "

nmelnikova :
- My grandmother in Sokolovsky had two in good condition. Previously, linen was woven on them and coarser and rather thin on shirts, sweaters, skirts, towels, tablecloths. It will do for us to collect seven sweats, you will mess around for half a day. My grandmother kept the camps in the barn, and she weaved at home, so in the assembled form he occupied most of the hut.

Vladimir :
- And I remembered how the grandmother forced us to help "scurry" - this when the novelty was made - the basis for the beginning of weaving rugs. We scurried about on the wall, about 8 meters, then filmed it in a braid, and then wound it on the shaft. Before that, they were threaded (fed with a needle) into the nitshenki, and only when through the nizhenki everything was leveled out and wound on the shaft. Well, then they threaded it into the reed and let's start weaving. They didn’t trust me to weave, but I know how to warp and serve in nizhenki and reed, my grandmother could hardly see.

How the warp threads were worn, shows olsha5, which is engaged in weaving, weaves canvases with a branded pattern.

and weave in a braid so as not to get tangled

eyange:
- Do you know why these rugs were woven? In those days, you couldn't wash the floors - they were unpainted. It took me and my grandmother half a day to clean the floors. First, rubbed with broken brick, then washed it off several times. The pine floor turned white, as if after shavings. So they covered it with rugs so as not to get dirty.

makha0na:
- Once upon a time it was like that. But my grandmother lived in an apartment with a painted floor. And the rugs were lying, because that's how it should be :) The bare floor is not comme il faut, like :)

Tatiana Lesnaya
- I filmed it in Suzdal. The weaver told me that now almost no one knows how to refuel such a loom. They were helped by a 96-year-old grandmother. Refueled for 2 days. Now this is only in museums or in villages in attics or in sheds (Leaving nature.

Skvortsova A.F. Rugs of grandmother Agafia.
I remember my post-war childhood. Throughout the fall and part of winter, mother and grandmother spun flax. Closer to spring, a loom was installed in the hut. In her free time on the collective farm, my mother wove canvases. It was imperative to do this. There was no factory manufactory, and there was no money to purchase it either. Towels, tablecloths, underwear and bed linen were sewn from homespun linen. And its quality depended on the ability of the peasant woman to subtly strain and weave tightly. In the spring, the canvases were bleached on a snowy crust.

Life in the village gradually improved, and the need to weave canvases disappeared. But the rugs - bright, colorful, elegant - were still required. Moreover, the townspeople, fed up with carpets and rugs, began to look for old craftswomen and buy rugs from them. But the problem is that fewer and fewer such craftswomen remain in our villages and provincial towns. This is a laborious and troublesome business.

How Krosna was founded, shows dinaza

13 meters of warp, that is, the main thread, is white in the photo. It’s not easy, boring, the most unloved, you need an assistant. All day, or even two days, we ran the machine with the main threads.

seredina77(in the first photo)

So far we have found this machine - we have traveled quite a few villages, we have seen people, talked to them, some interesting performances about their lives, morals received .... For this, it was even worth going on a trip and hauling the machine for 600 versts. So Dinka found an 80-year-old grandmother - a weaver. I myself have not seen her work, but Dinka said that it was very interesting and of high quality. This granny weaves in winter, and removes the loom for the summer period (after Easter). So it was traditionally - in the summer it is necessary to peasant on the land, to grow the harvest. Dinka still dreamed of coming to this granny in the winter, learning the skill. And the granny already went to the neighboring village on foot, persuading all the girls there to learn from her, to adopt the skill. Grannies die, and with them crafts are forgotten.

Voldemar T. in the video told how he learned to weave rugs. Filmed in the mid-90s.

Weaver Lidia Nikolaevna shows the action of the weaving mill, which is more than a hundred years old. Museum of the history of the city of Myshkin, Yaroslavl region.

M.V. Vasilievich is an artist. The reed used to punch the weft to the web for compaction.

IV Belkovsky - artist. "Winter Sun" 1994. Round rugs crocheted. (I tried to wash a crocheted rug in an automatic washing machine - it washes well. Approx. Ryazanochka77)

Around the World magazine. August 1979. Weaving rugs in Paloma.

And in winter, when there is a lot of free time, women in Paloma weave rugs. Everyone knows how to weave, they learned from their mothers as girls. Previously, thin linen yarn was woven into sundresses, shirts, towels, tablecloths and sheets, in a row for bags. Weaved and paths. “We worked all winter,“ plastered, ”women recall. Yes, and in the summer they gave a lot of work to flax, it was necessary to sow it, dry it out, soak it, knead it, comb it and only then spin it. All this, of course, was done by hand. Now, of course, no one sows their own linen and no one weaves the linen anymore; the need for this hard work has disappeared, but the ability to weave, the habit of this occupation, remains. Winter days seem empty without him. So the rugs are being woven. So the former craft, which was part of women's responsibilities, acquired the character of a creative activity "for the soul", became the joy of a free hour.

They are no longer woven from linen yarn, but from rags dyed in different colors, cut into thin strips and twisted. Simple bobbin threads are taken as a basis. Not only the material from which the rugs are woven has changed, their sizes and patterns have changed. Rugs are now woven wide, up to 80 centimeters wide; especially for this, the old crochet is being reworked. Most likely, they do this because the rugs are no longer just paths that cover the floor, their purpose has become more diverse - they cover sofas, hang them like carpets over beds. But the traditional pattern in the form of multi-colored transverse stripes is not entirely suitable for this. Some craftswomen make a new drawing - checkerboard, from squares (not without the influence, of course, of factory blankets and bedspreads).

For a day, an experienced craftswoman, working without stopping, can weave up to three meters.

The magazine “Around the World. February 1989. Byelorussian SSR

Towels, made by non-Lyubov weavers on wooden crosses, went to walk around the world. What international exhibitions they just did not visit! In New York and Montreal, in Tokyo, in Paris and Brussels, they were and came back from everywhere with gold medals. Even the American Metropolitan Museum could not resist this beauty: it acquired several non-Lyubian towels for its collection.

Neglyubka (Belarusian. Neglyubka) is a village, the center of the Neglyubka village council of the Vetka district of the Gomel region of Belarus.

When I was in school, there was a loom in the girls' room, like this.

He was fragile, something broke there, so the teacher showed him in class how visual material... They did not try to weave on it.

There was also such a machine made of wood. Here on it I will tell you the "device" of the machine.

The loom consists of a loom, a shuttle and a hip, a beam and a roller. In weaving, two types of threads are used - the warp thread and the weft thread. The base thread is wound on a beam, from which it is unwound in the process of work, bending around the roller, which performs a guiding function, and passing through the lamellas (holes) and through the eyes of the heddles of the heddle, move upward for the throat. A weft thread passes through the throat. Thus, the fabric appears on the machine. This is the principle of the loom.

There are manual, automatic and mechanical looms. The manual ones were invented at the beginning of history, they required the hard work of a weaver. With the development of science and technology, weaving machines have also changed. Now one person can operate a dozen automatic looms.

Resourceful needlewomen weaved like this.

On it you can hardly weave rugs, Weaved scarves, bags.

There were such looms for weaving.

At one forum, a visitor wanted to buy old and "scary" rugs, which surprised good people.

- So I'm going to lay them in the border. My beds are narrow, and the borders are wide, and the grass-murava grows on them - I'm tired of it! I already struggle with her in every way. And it won't grow under the rugs. She's not so interested. Including let them be at least some old. The technology of "narrow ridges" according to Meatlider.

Now a variety of weaving table-top looms and frames for weaving are being produced, you can't write about all of them - the post will be longer.

Modern weaving machine Glimakra Julia (Julia). Made in Sweden. In Russia, some needlewomen have this machine. The width of the fabric is up to 68 cm. Rugs can be woven on it.

Japanese loom

Modern desktop machine Emilia (Emilia) Made in Sweden. Supplied in two versions: with a filling width of 50 cm and with a filling width of 35 cm. Fixed on the table.

I bought such a machine in a Moscow store. The width of the finished canvas is up to 35 cm.

Woven from strips from old clothes. The width of one canvas is at least 30 cm. I crocheted the canvases. They are not very dense and do not fit like rugs, because on this machine it is difficult to punch the wefts to the canvas. It can be folded and put on a bench like a seat, or you can spread it out on the grass, on a hammock. Gave it to a friend for her summer residence. (Algerian carpet, hand-woven, made of woolen threads on a cotton basis - they brought it when my husband was in school, there is no demolition for him).

Weaving rugs never dies. This is a rare handicraft because the loom is not easy to acquire. Takes up a lot of space. Instead of weaving, they knit with a thick crochet rugs from stripes from old clothes. Or weave a braid and sew it in a circle.

It must be said that the Cartwright loom was at first very imperfect and did not pose a threat to hand weaving.

In 1806, Peter Marland introduced the slow motion of the batan when laying the shuttle. In 1879, Werner von Siemens developed the electric loom. And only in 1890 after that Northrop created an automatic shuttle charging and there came a real breakthrough in factory weaving. In 1896, the same inventor brought the first automatic machine to the market. Then a loom without a shuttle appeared, which increased labor productivity many times over. Now machine tools continue to improve in the direction of computer technology and automatic control. But all the most important for the development of weaving was done by the humanities and inventor Cartwright.

The introduction of the latest technologies in industrial sectors primarily affects equipment. Examples of different industries demonstrate the benefits of technical development, which is manifested in the improvement of product quality. At the same time, there are areas where traditional methods of organizing technological processes are still relevant. In particular, the loom retains the concept of a close relationship between manual labor and machine function to this day. Of course, in some areas of production, the emergence of electronic systems with automation can be noted. However, according to the combination of the advantages of the two approaches, the advantage still remains with manual and mechanical units.

General information about weaving machines

Despite the conservative approach to textile production, participants in this segment use many variations of this machine. Moreover, all models serve one purpose - the formation of tissue. As a result of the interweaving of several threads with a certain configuration of location relative to each other, a textile product with a given structure is created. In general, the concept is simple, so its origins go back into history quite deeply. For example, the first finds testifying to the manufacture of fabrics by weaving are about 6 thousand years old. If we talk about machines close to modern technical means, then the first looms appeared in 1785. It was at this time that a mechanical unit of this type was patented. At the same time, it cannot be said that the device was something unprecedented and revolutionary. By this time, manual mechanisms were quite common in Europe for almost a hundred years.

Main characteristics

A special place in the technical parameters is occupied by the dimensions of the machine tools. The most compact dimensions are traditional manual typewriters, which can be easily placed even in a small apartment. They can be compared to a washing machine, but it is important to consider the need to organize a workplace. One of the most important characteristics is the width of the cloth, which on average varies from 50 to 100 cm. Of course, a weaving machine for industrial needs can have a cloth width of two meters, which makes it possible to make carpets. The dimensions of the unit should also be taken into account in terms of floor placement. As a rule, models from the junior and middle rulers occupy areas of no more than 100x100 cm.In this case, the installation height can reach 1.5 m.

Machine device

The classic design of a hand-held machine primarily provides for the presence of two cross bars for the product roll and beams. As a rule, these elements are included in the basic package. The machine does not do without a thread holder. In the process of warping, it is for this part that the ends of the threads are fixed. A parting hook is used to thread the yarn loops into the corresponding teeth. This part is also called the reed plug. In addition, the device of the weaving machine provides for the presence of embedded strips. With these elements, the user can keep the base flat and smooth. The planks are usually laid on the base as they are wound. When the formation of the base on the machine begins, the function of the holder of the heddles is necessary - it is performed by a special lock included in the kit. Wire rod kits are also available as an option to secure the headers after they have been installed for operation.

Varieties

Manufacturers offer manual, mechanical, semi-mechanical, and automated devices. Also, the models are divided into hydraulic and pneumatic machines, depending on the principle of operation. From the point of view of structural performance, round and flat machines can be distinguished. By the way, the first option is used exclusively for the production of tissues with special qualities.

For example, it can be a sleeve material. For domestic use, small, narrow models are more often used, and for large industries industrial looms are suitable, which have enough power to work with large volumes of textile material. There is also a division of machines according to the ability to form different fabrics. So, eccentric models are used to create simple weaves, and finely patterned canvases can be made on a carriage machine.

Classification by thread laying method

On this basis, pneumatic and hydraulic devices are distinguished. True, there is a third type - rapier machines. As for the pneumatic models, they pass the thread in the throat using an air stream. For this purpose, the main nozzle is designed, built into the structure of the thigh. It is important to note that this part is fixed to the main tank that distributes the compressed air. Also common are hydraulic and rapier types of looms, which use water and special feeding elements in the laying process. In the first case, the thread is drawn by a flying water drop. In general, the device of such machines corresponds to pneumatic counterparts, only a water jet is used instead of air. Rapier mechanisms introduce the thread into the throat with two metal rods, one of which performs the feeding function, and the second one - the receiving one.

Maintenance nuances

The list of activities performed in the maintenance process depends on the specific design. For example, keeping hand-made models requires careful inspections of the structure, which is most often made of wood. Correct setting of components, strips and clamps is the main part of a craftsman's job. More complex designs of mechanical and automatic units require additional measures. For example, it may be necessary to refuel the loom with water for hydraulic applications. Pneumatic equipment also involves the separate maintenance of devices that provide air supply. It also requires checking the connecting hoses and nozzles that distribute the flows.

Loom manufacturers

Leading positions are taken by European companies, including Belgian, Italian and German manufacturers. In particular, pneumatic models are offered on the market by Dornier, Picanol and Promatech. Also high quality machines produce Japanese companies including Tsudakoma and Toyota. Hydraulic models are also released under the same brands. It is noteworthy that Russian enterprises not represented in this segment. But the domestic weaving machine can be found in the category of rapier models. Plants "Tekstilmash" and "STB" offer their products in this niche.

Conclusion

Despite the expansion of production capacity, the best textile products are produced small businesses focusing on manual labor. There are many benefits to this approach that quality products provide. For example, a weaving machine with a manual operating principle allows timely correction of fabric formation, as well as the necessary adjustments to the setting of the feeding elements. In addition, there are many operations that automated machines cannot perform. In such cases, again, the hands of experienced weavers are best at hand.