Among the many Chinese legends about the birth of silk, there is the following: Empress Xi Lin Chi, getting up early in the morning from bed, went to the balcony of the palace and was amazed at the shine and radiance of the cobwebs in the branches of the trees, illuminated by the rising sun. The Empress wished to receive a canvas of the same lightness and radiance to cover her bed with it. And then the silk obtained from the thread, not a spider, but a silkworm, helped the Chinese mistress to transform her bedroom.

The oldest discovered fragments of silk fabrics date back to the second half of the 2nd millennium BC. Silk possesses unique properties... Silk fabric is highly hygroscopic. It gives a feeling of dryness, even absorbing moisture by more than a third of its own weight, an indispensable property in the humid and hot subtropical regions of Asia. It easily absorbs moisture from the skin and gives it to the air unusually quickly. That is why silk is not only a material for banners and banners, but also for underwear. It is pleasant to the skin and seems to continue it. The thread secreted by the silkworm is unusually strong and reaches a length of meters (these fragments of threads are spun together and used in weaving). The thread has a triangular cross-section, and, like a prism, reflects light, which is why silk fabrics shimmer so beautifully. Silk is easy to dye, does not cause allergies, is lightweight and does not require special care. V cold weather it warms, and in the heat it gives a feeling of coolness.

Before the invention of synthetic materials, silk was used to make the cord of bicycle and car racing tires, and thin cables were made. Its ideal insulating properties were in demand in electrical engineering, and, in contrast artificial materials, silk retained its dielectric qualities even at high temperatures, completely charred. The real flourishing of silk fabrics came at the beginning of the twentieth century. The development of aviation brought to life a parachute, which required a canvas that was light and strong at the same time. There was no alternative to silk here. The silkworm saved the lives of hundreds of thousands of pilots. The American firm Irwin, a pioneer in parachute production, even featured a silkworm caterpillar on its emblem. Each pilot who escaped thanks to the Irwin parachute was given a solid gold badge: a silk worm with ruby ​​eyes, and its owner was enrolled in the Caterpillar club. Silk is resistant to stretching, tearing and extreme stress: 16 layers of silk fabric stacked one on top of the other stop the pistol bullet. Perhaps, light and cheap silk body armor will appear soon.

Strong silk thread has long been used in surgery. Its strength, neutrality and smoothness made silk as if it was specially created for stitching wounds. About silk as an overlay material surgical sutures said in the ancient Indian medical treatise "Ayurveda" (I millennium BC). In the 19th century, silk becomes the most common suture material in Europe. Along with the smoothness, which Pirogov called one of the main properties of the surgical thread, silk was comfortable with its resistance to high temperatures, which made it possible to thoroughly sterilize the surgical thread. The therapeutic effect of the proteins that make up the silk thread has been known for a very long time. Today, cosmetology and medicine have adopted the healing properties of silk. Grated silkworm cocoon added to cosmetical tools and creams, has a stimulating and rejuvenating effect on the skin.

The Byzantine emperor and historian Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus (), the author of the work "On the ceremonies of the Byzantine court", strongly advised his successors: "The barbarians should be told that the royal clothes are not made by hands and are brought directly from heaven ... Which of the emperors will make these clothes everyday or give them her - is subject to curse! ". The clothes were, of course, silk. This fabric was worth its weight in gold: a bundle of silk was valued at double the precious metal. The production of threads, dyeing with precious purple, patterned weaving - each stage of the production of silk fabric was so laborious, so costly that the ceremonial dress of the emperors really seemed a real miracle. She was not only a symbol of power, but as if she embodied power itself.

Silk was extremely loved by artists. Its special brilliance makes it possible to unmistakably identify it in the paintings of painters of any era and any direction. This is a way not only to show descendants the high social status of the person depicted, but also to demonstrate the virtuosity of the brush, which easily conveys on canvas different types silk fabrics - proud moire and iridescence of order ribbons, rigidity and subtlety of taffeta, shine of smooth and patterned satins, grace and delicate shades of raw silk in the famous silk lace "blondes" and "Chantilly", the splendor of brocade and the softness of silk velvet. Francois Boucher. Marquise de Pompadour. 1759

Particular success in medieval Europe used silks that change their color. The technique of their manufacture appeared in China and consisted in the fact that the weft and warp threads were of different colors. On the fractures of the folds when walking, the blue fabric suddenly gleamed red or blue. For Chinese officials, the combination of shades meant promotion within the same rank. The Byzantines also began to use the effect of a sudden transformation of an important person in the state - when the thick purple color of the fabric in which the ruler was wearing suddenly began to shine pink or light lilac. This weaving technique, which is known as shang-jean, has not gone out of fashion for many years. The "Choosy Bride" and the heroine in "Major's Matchmaking" by P.A. Fedotov.

From the names of silk fabrics of different eras, you can create fascinating story tastes and preferences, find out the names of the then heroes of the world and the scene, the creators of fashion. The most valuable was considered silk fabric, called "gro-gro" or "grogron". The word "gro" (gros) denoted large intact cocoons with the longest thread. Therefore, a particle of "gro" in the name of any fabric meant the presence of silk in the raw material. Grodetour, Grodenapl and Grodanwehr were named after the original place of production - the cities of Tours, Naples and Antwerp. Grodeshin, respectively, was a Chinese silk, and grodafrik (African) and thromoir got their names from textile ornament. Moire was obtained by processing the finished fabric with special rollers that shift the threads of the fabric in different directions... The finer and clearer the ebb was obtained, the higher was the value of the thunderstorm that went to the order ribbons.

"Mentenon", "dubarry" or "pompadour" are not the names of the famous favorites of the French court, but old atlases named in their honor and distinguished from other varieties by such a careful execution of floral ornaments in the form of bouquets of flowers and garlands that they gave the impression of embroidery according to the atlas. In this, the creations of weavers from Lyon were not inferior to the perfection of woven ornamentation on fabrics from the workshops of Isfahan, Tabriz or Kashan, Iranian cities, from where the famous "facial" fabrics were exported to Europe in the 16th century. They got their name from the depiction of human figures - graceful young men and beauties playing music in the garden, heroic horsemen who beat dragons and lions, scenes from epics and legends. Images of flowers, birds, butterflies, creating the illusion of presence, were inspired by the Sufi ideas of paradise as a lushly blooming garden. Therefore, images of lilies, hyacinths, carnations, cypresses, plane trees with variegated butterflies and birds fluttering among the branches are so frequent.

Silk was used to weave dense damasks for upholstery and walls, the finest muslins with exquisite embroidery, precious brocade with the introduction of silver and gold threads, and various velvets. Hat silk differed from clothing silk, and shoe silk differed from linen silk. Silk can be worn from head to toe. They can decorate a home - wallpaper, lace curtains, draperies and carpets are made from it. History has preserved the name of the Iranian weaver Giyas ad-Din Ali from the city of Yezd, who was distinguished by incredible skill. But even he couldn't weave more than 10 centimeters of patterned fabric a day. Until the advent of Joseph Marie Jaccard's machine in 1809, which made it possible to mechanize patterned weaving, colored silks remained the privilege of the nobility. Until the 19th century, almost all European countries had laws restricting the use of silk by the lower classes. But even when these laws ceased to operate, silk remained so expensive that it was available to few.

In the 18th century, Europeans were fascinated by everything Chinese, and in the twentieth century they were carried away by everything Japanese, including silk painting. Japanese kimonos that appeared at exhibitions in the second half of the 19th century made a deep impression not only on artists, but also on Parisian fashionistas. Silk at the end of the exhibitions went European cities, and the method of ornamentation aroused the interest of designers. The kimono did not have to be tried on, it was chosen as a painting. Painting, embroidery, applique were applied to the finished kimono, and the artistic composition did not follow the cut. The free painting technique amazed Europeans, and painted shawls and scarves became fashionable for a long time in the twentieth century. The natural thread fascinated people so much that from ancient times they tried, if not to surpass, then to repeat the magical properties of silk. But no matter how improved textile production enriched with new materials, the solemnity of silk, the splendor of brocade, the shine of satin and the softness of velvet will not lose their significance for connoisseurs of natural beauty.

The structure and properties of silk

Prepared by R.A. Gryaznova

Lesson topic: The structure and properties of silk

Purpose: To get acquainted with the structure and properties of silk

Tasks:

1. To give students a concrete idea of ​​the structure and properties of silk

2. To systematize the students' knowledge about natural fibers.

3. Correction and development of thought processes, self-control skills, memory, visual perception.

4. To cultivate an interest in the subject of independence, hard work, accuracy.

Lesson type: combined

Exercise: answer the questions by choosing the correct answer from the proposed list

• Wool belongs to fibers:

a) of plant origin

b) chemical origin

c) animal origin

• Which layer of wool fiber gives it softness, crimp:

3. Which layer of wool fiber gives it stiffness:

a) scaly b) crustal c) serous

4. What type of wool fiber is not used for the production of fabric:

a) transitional b) dead c) spine

5. Chemical composition of wool fiber:

a) cellulose b) protein c) yolk

Exercise: answer the questions

• Around 2700 BC, unexpectedly, the ancient Chinese discovered new way the extraction of threads for weaving - they learned to unwind the cocoons of silkworm caterpillars.
• This is how a new, hitherto unknown fabric appeared, which was worth its weight in gold and was considered the fabric of the emperors - natural silk. In those days, silk could be used to pay off like money. The value of silk fabric was given by its special properties - lightness, thinness, hygroscopicity, wear resistance and healing properties. In order to preserve such a valued status, the secrets of the production of natural silk were carefully hidden by ancient masters.

Silk is the emperor among fabrics!

According to Chinese legend, the title of Goddess of Silk belongs to Lady Xi-Ling-Shi, the wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor, who is said to have ruled China around 3000 BC. NS. When, according to legend, she was drinking her morning tea in the garden under a mulberry tree, an insect cocoon fell into her cup and began to bloom in hot tea. The first lady liked the thin and strong thread so much that she is now credited not only with the idea of ​​breeding silkworms, but even the invention of the loom.

Natural silk

Obtained from the Silkworm Caterpillar.

The caterpillar feeds on mulberry leaves.

WITH triplet silk

• Silkworm caterpillars weaving a cocoon

• Silk thread has truly amazing strength, it can withstand strong pressure and is very tear resistant. At break, the silk thread is not inferior to steel in the same diameter, and not so long ago it was found that 16 layers of silk withstand a bullet from a Magnum 357 (with a lead core).

Silk structure

The caterpillar simultaneously selects two threads glued together protein sericin (with silk glue).

The chemical composition of the silk thread

protein fibroin.

• Silk is the only natural material that does not cause any allergic reactions;
• Possesses high hygienic properties;
• Absorbs moisture well and dries quickly;
• When wet, it slightly loses its strength;
• Sensitive to heat (fibers consist of protein);
• Silk is destroyed by light;
• Silk burns like wool;

Comparative characteristics fabrics made of wool and silk fibers

Fiber type

Distinctive features of fabric

By appearance

To the touch

Wool

Combustion reaction

Silk

When removed from the flame, combustion stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with fingers. The smell of burnt feathers

Surface rough, matt

Soft, warm feeling

When removed from the flame, combustion stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed between the fingers. Gives off the smell of burnt feathers

Soft, cool feeling

The surface is smooth, shiny

Exercise: solve a crossword puzzle and define a keyword

1- keyword (horizontal)

Vertically:

1- the name of the fiber;

2- the surface of the silk fabric;

3 - it determines the type of fiber, its naturalness;

4- silk fiber consists of which protein ( chemical composition)

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TRAVEL ON THE FABRIC SEA Classification of textile fibers Textile fibers Natural vegetable origin cotton Chemical animal origin wool linen jute kenaf et al silk of mineral origin asbestos Natural fibers of animal origin YUNGA! These animals are bred for wool. How to define wool? Wool fibers under a microscope Microscopic characteristics of sheep wool The shape and arrangement of the scales affects the degree of shine of the wool: tight-fitting scales, strongly reflecting light, give a silky sheen; steep ones, on the contrary, scatter light incorrectly, and therefore the hairs seem a little shiny. Sometimes the cortical layer is very thin, sometimes it expands almost to the entire hair; it happens both without stripes, and with narrow or wide, correctly or incorrectly positioned stripes. The core, wool, if only there is one, can A the finest noble merino - Wool, similar in terms of bite), - an idle and coarse wool (it is called with or be very narrow, reaching 4/5 microscopic hair width; from 1- 4 rows of round oblong previous, cells filled with sharper fine-grained stripes.air, and under a few concave, flat-lying one next to the other. Characteristic - "comb" Camvolle ++ n = worsted "comb" Worsted wool, = worsted combine, - "combed wool" Worshiper. fiber Awn (transitional hair) - a thicker, stiffer and less crimped fiber Dead hair - a low-strength and very stiff fiber. It consists of thin, crimped, down fibers uniform in thickness and length. Semi-fine wool includes thicker downy and transitional fibers. Semi-coarse wool includes down and thicker transitional fibers. Coarse wool contains thick fibers. Sorting Scutching Rinsing Drying Fleece Wool fiber properties Wool fibers range in length from 20 to 450 mm and vary in thickness. The strength of wool fibers depends on their thickness and structure. The color of the coat can be white, gray, red and black. The shine of the coat depends on the size and shape of the scales. Wool fiber is highly hygroscopic and has good resilience and heat resistance. Due to its good elasticity, wool products do not wrinkle. The resistance of wool to sunlight is much higher than that of plant fibers. Reaction to combustion Wool fibers are sintered during combustion; when the fibers are removed from the flame, their combustion stops. At the end, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with your fingers. In the process of burning, the smell of burnt feather is felt. Woolen fiber is used for the manufacture of dress, costume and coat fabrics. Thanks to felting, it is possible to make cloth, drape, felt, felt from wool, as well as other textile products. Woolen fabrics go on sale under the names: gabardine, cashmere, drape, cloth, tights and others. For the first time, the secret of making silk was discovered in China five thousand years ago. An ancient legend says that once Xi Ling Chi, the wife of the third emperor of China Huang Di, who was also called the "Yellow Emperor", was drinking tea in the garden of the palace under the crown of a mulberry tree and a silkworm cocoon fell from the tree into her cup of tea. The young empress and her maids were extremely surprised to see the cocoon begin to unfold in the hot water, releasing a thin silk thread. Having become interested, the girl began to observe how the cocoon unfolded. Xi Ling Chi was so impressed by the beauty and strength of the silk thread that she collected thousands of cocoons and from them weaved the emperor's clothes. So a tiny butterfly silkworm gave silk to all mankind, and the Empress, in gratitude for such a valuable gift, was elevated to the rank of a deity. Stages of development of the silkworm Stage 1 Stage 2 The caterpillar is active from the 4th moment of hatching: it crawls in search of mulberry leaves and the Caterpillar, finding them Stage 3 10 days after molting, the caterpillar's gluttony and it stops nibbling altogether. The silkworm butterfly lays yellow eggs, The butterfly is about 4 stages long At 20-25 ° C, the butterfly emerges from the pupa in 20-24 days. begins to eat greedily. The caterpillar's life is spent eating. Newly born caterpillars gnaw exclusively finds a suitable place on a branch. Stops, settles there, and quickly moving his head from side to side, the soft parts of the sheet, making small holes. A little later, they eat up the entire sheet, leaving only 1.5 mm sticks. It is usually covered with a substance, as a result of which it firmly releases transparent saliva, which softens the threads of the cocoon wall, begins to stretch the sticky, glued silk in the air, numerous filamentous silk in all directions. The veins begin and turn the leaf into thin lace. Later they eat them too. cocoon curling. surface, the most of which is set aside. The number of eggs in a meal, a clutch, ranges from 400 to 800 jaws, pokes the head with silk threads, breaks them with their legs and leaves them. When between the number of adults the rustle of their chewing is produced. the average clutch contains a noise of five hundred. A small shaggy characteristic noise comes out of the egg, between which there is rain, eggs. falling leaves of trees. cocoon. which varies 300m and 1500m. Cocoons have an oval shape. Its flower can be silvery-white, pale. In 30-40 days of its development, the caterpillar eats about 30 g of a mulberry leaf, and by the time the cocoon is formed, the caterpillar is about 3 mm long. pink. After the end of the cocoon curling, the caterpillar turns into a pupa. its length reaches 8-9 cm, and weighs 3-5 g. This means that from the moment their eggs hatch, the caterpillar increases in length by 2530 times and in weight by 6-10 times. Continuous growth entails periodic shedding of the shell. From time to time, the shell bursts, separates from the body, falls off it. The silkworm caterpillar has five molts. "SILK" - "CHINA", "fabric from China" "sericus" - "Chinese matter" "seres" - China "silks" "silk" "selk" "silk" the purpose of softening silk glue, steam treatment to kill pupae, drying with hot air to remove moisture, winding silk threads together with several cocoons. The length of the unwound cocoon thread is 600-900 m. The strength of silk is slightly higher than that of wool. The color of the boiled cocoon threads is white, slightly creamy. Natural silk has good hygroscopicity, quickly absorbs moisture and dries quickly. It feels cool to the touch. Silk breaks down faster when exposed to direct sunlight than other natural fibers. Combustion reaction. Silk fibers are sintered during burning, when the fibers are taken out of the flame, their burning stops. At the end, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with your fingers. In the process of burning, the smell of burnt feather is felt. Natural silk is used for the production of various dress fabrics, as well as headscarves, scarves and so on. Silk fabrics go on sale under the names: satin, velvet, crepe de chine, chiffon and others. Practical work Comparative characteristics of fabrics made of wool and silk fibers Materials and tools: fabric samples, textbook, workbook, matches, a container with water Safety rules: put on overalls, carefully handle the fire, match the carcass in a container with water. 1. 2. 3. 4. Workflow Consider pieces of cotton and linen fabrics. Compare them with each other in appearance and to the touch Separate the thread from the fabric, carefully set it on fire, determine how it burns, what odor it gives off. Enter the results in the table. heat Silk Surface smooth, shiny Soft, cool sensation Reaction to combustion When removed from the flame, burning stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with fingers When removed from the flame, burning stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed between fingers Help Masha and teddy bear to collect cubes in words on the theme "Materials Science". ? A S V T Homework of your own choice Compile and decorate a collection of fabrics and other textiles. The themes of the collections can be varied: “Varieties of fabrics by fiber”, “Varieties of fabrics by purpose”, “Varieties of fabrics by method of finishing”, etc. Choose or draw illustrations for the topic: Cotton and linen ”, woolen and silk fabrics. Prepare interesting messages on this topic. Pick up riddles, proverbs, sayings about fabrics. We use

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Slide presentation for a labor lesson in grades 5-7 on the topic: "Natural silk"

Slide presentation provided by: Boschenko Rima Ivanovna, teacher of technology St. Natukhaevskaya MOU secondary school №26 email: [email protected]

1. Caterpillars and cocoons.
2. A bit of history.
3. Fabric making.
4. Silk properties.
5. The use of silk.
6. Natural silk care

Silk learned to make in ancient China about 5 thousand years ago.

Only women of the imperial family bred silkworms, collected and processed cocoons. For divulging the secrets of obtaining silk, they were punished with the death penalty.

If someone tried to take the silkworm out of China, then the death penalty awaited him too.

Silk got to India thanks to a cunning Chinese princess who hid silkworm larvae in high hair before she was sent on the way to the groom - the Indian king.

SILK IN EUROPE.

It wasn't until AD 550 that two roving monks furtively took silkworm larvae to Byzantium. This is how silk appeared in Europe.

In European countries, silk was used in great demand and was highly valued. Only noble persons were allowed to wear silk clothes.

In ancient Rome, a pound of gold was paid for a pound of silk.

In the 13th-15th centuries, silk-weaving became the main industry in Italy. Silk was woven in Venice, Genoa, Florence and Milan.

It was only in the 18th century that they learned to weave silk in Russia.

A silk dress in the 17th century was worth a fortune.

TRACKS AND COCOONS

The silkworm butterfly lays over 500 eggs in early summer.

Silkworm caterpillars feed on white mulberry (mulberry) leaves for a month and a half.

After that, they are ready to weave their cocoon. The thinnest, almost invisible thread is pulled out of the hole in the jaws of the caterpillar.

The caterpillar attaches its cocoon to a branch of a tree. Each cocoon contains from 400 to 1100 meters of the finest silk fiber.

Cocoons are collected and sorted.

The best quality cocoons are left for further breeding.

The rest of the cocoons are boiled in water, which dissolves the glue.

Fibers from several cocoons are combined into one thread and wound onto a reel, obtaining raw silk.

Raw silk twisted into a single silk thread. For this, fibers from 1012 cocoons are joined together.

Manual work loom attracts tourists. Silk fabric self made valued several times more expensive than the factory one.

Mulbury- these are silkworm threads. This type of silkworm is best bred in captivity. This silk is produced most of all in the world.

Tussar very strong thread. It is obtained from wild silkworms by collecting cocoons in the forest. Such threads are used to make fabric for curtains and upholstery.

Tussar the oak silkworm is much thinner than the usual tussar. Fiber color from beige to chocolate. Its fabric is thinner and very durable. Therefore, it is valued much more expensively.

Erie- the lowest quality silk. The cocoons of these caterpillars are harvested after the butterflies emerge. Therefore, the threads in them are cut. After washing the cocoons, they are processed and woven like wool or cotton.

Muga- the most expensive type of silk. Caterpillars of this species feed only on leaves of aromatic trees. The fiber is very thin and strong and has a bright golden color. Fabrics made from such threads do not lose their elasticity, natural golden hue and shine for up to 50 years.

Silk fiber properties

Silk fiber:

• uniform in thickness
• elastic
• brilliant
• lasting
• long

Properties of silk fabrics

Silk fabrics:

• lungs
• shiny
• breathe well
• quickly absorb moisture
• dry quickly
• little crumple
• do not electrify
• well draped
• do not shrink
• does not attract dust
• hypoallergenic
• insects and dust mites do not start in natural silk.

Application natural silk due to its excellent properties

• Summer or smart clothes
• Tablecloths
• Curtains
• Linens
• Furniture upholstery
• Filling pillows with silk fibers

Questions to reinforce

1. What types of silkworms have we met?
2. What do silkworms eat?
3. In which country did you learn to get natural silk earlier than in others?
4. What is a cocoon?
5. How long can a fiber reach in one cocoon?
6. What properties does silk fiber have?
7. What are the properties of silk fabrics?
8. What products can be made from natural silk?

A few words after watching

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The first silk fabrics were very rare and expensive, so only rulers and their family members wore them. In all likelihood, inside the palace they wore white robes, and at ceremonial exits - c. With the expansion of production, silk gradually became available to the court, and then to wider sections of the population.

Gradually, a real silk cult arose in China. Old Chinese texts mention sacrifices to the silkworm god, as well as sacred mulberry groves and the veneration of individual mulberry trees.

Already in the era of the Fighting Kingdoms (475-221 BC), silk and silk products were ubiquitous in China in almost all segments of the population. Mencius (372-289 BC), "The Second Perfect Wise," suggested planting mulberry trees around the perimeter of the "well fields" so that young and old could wear silk clothes.

Silk was widely used in the household. In addition to being used as a fabric for clothing and embroidery, strings were made from it for musical instruments, bowstrings for bows, made fishing lines and even paper. During the reign of the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD), silk became a kind of universal cash equivalent: the peasants paid taxes in grain and silk, the government also paid the government officials in silk.

The value of silk was calculated based on its length and was equated to gold. Silk became, in fact, the currency used in settlements with other countries. The important role of silk in Chinese culture evidenced by the fact that out of 5 thousand most commonly used about 230 have the key "silk".

The technologies of sericulture, embroidery, and dyeing of fabrics were rapidly improving. This continued until the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

The volume and quality of silk products gradually increased. Brightness of colors, richness and perfection of embroidery were amazing. From the II century. BC. was established international trade- the famous Silk Road. A key role in this process was played by Zhang Qian 张 骞 (? -114 BC), a Chinese diplomat and traveler who opened the countries of Central Asia to China and Chinese trade. On caravan routes, some of which existed before, caravans loaded with Chinese goods set off to the West.

However, a number of historical and archaeological facts indicate that in other countries they learned about Chinese silk much earlier. So, in one of the Egyptian villages near Thebes and in the Valley of the Kings, female mummies wrapped in silk fabrics dating from the 11th century were discovered. BC. This is probably the earliest find.

After the accession of the Tang dynasty (618-907), special weaving workshops were founded, initially producing ceremonial headdresses, and later, multi-colored silk fabrics. The fabrics were dyed with plant dyes: flowers, leaves, bark, plant roots. The main weaving centers were located in the modern provinces of Henan, Hebei, Shandong and Sichuan. The Tang era was a time of intensive silk trade; it was found in the territory of modern Xinjiang, Turfan, Tajikistan and even in the North Caucasus.

The Greeks and Romans called China the "Country of Silk" - Serik. Silk was very popular among the nobility. It was extremely expensive, but, nevertheless, it was eagerly bought. The price could go up to 300 denarii - the salary of a Roman legionary for a whole year! Silk imports were already threatening the very economy of the Roman Empire. In 380 the Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus (c. 330 - after 395) wrote that "The use of silk, which was once limited only to the nobles, has now spread to all classes without distinction, even the lowest.".

The barbarians were also captivated by this amazing material. Goth Alaric, who conquered Rome in 409, demanded, among other things, 4,000 silk tunics.

However, the mystery of silk making remained unsolved for a long time. Many fantastic explanations have been offered. So, Virgil (1st century BC), for example, believed that silk was made of fleece from leaves. The Greek historian Dionysius (1st century BC) believed that silk was made from flowers. It has been suggested that shiny silk threads grow on trees, or that it was created by huge beetles, or that it is made from the fluff of birds. Roman historian of the 4th century Ammianus Marcellinus provided the following explanation: “Silk fabrics are made from soil. Chinese soil is soft like wool. After watering and special processing, it can be used to form silk threads ".

The Chinese zealously guarded the secret of making silk. Anyone who tried to transfer eggs, larvae, silkworm cocoons abroad was executed. Nevertheless, in Korea, and then in Japan, they learned the secret of silk production. It is believed that to Korea around the 2nd century. BC. it was brought by the Chinese themselves, who emigrated there. Silk appeared on the Japanese islands in the 3rd century AD. Then, in the 4th century, silk production was established in India.

There are several legends about how the silk-making technology became known in other countries. I agree with one of them, the Chinese princess was engaged to the prince of Khotan. Her fiancé wished his fiancée to bring along mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae. According to another version, the princess herself wanted to bring them to her new homeland. She hid the seeds and maggots in her lush hair and took them outside of China. It happened around 440. And from there, the secret of silk production spread throughout the world.

According to another semi-legend, semi-history, the secret was divulged by two Nestorian monks. Around 550, they secretly brought silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds to the Byzantine emperor Justinian I (483-565) in their hollow bamboo staves.

Thus, Byzantium became the first country entering the Western world, where its own silkworm breeding appeared. Church and state created their silk workshops, monopolizing production and zealously guarding the secret of its manufacture. In the 6th century, the Persians mastered the art of silk weaving and created their own masterpieces.

Catholic prelates wore rich silk robes and they decorated altars. Gradually, the fashion for silk spread among the nobility. In the VIII-IX centuries, silk began to be produced in Spain, and four centuries later silk was successfully produced by the cities of the Apennine Peninsula, several cities of which gave their names to fabrics. It is believed that Italian silk originates from two thousand skilled craftswomen who were brought to Italy from Constantinople in the 13th century.

Today silk is produced in many countries of the world: in China, Italy, India, Spain, France. But China is still the world's largest exporter of raw silk and silk products.

Silk production technology

For centuries, silk remained a luxury commodity for most countries of the world, for which they gave their last money. Silk production is a very long and painstaking process that requires constant attention. Currently, a number of procedures have been automated.

Over the centuries, sericulture has developed and improved, turning into an exact science. But even now, silk production technology is based on old methods.

Silk is obtained from silk moth cocoons. There are many varieties of wild silk moths. But only one of them became the progenitor of the famous Bombyx mori- a blind, wingless moth, from which the best silk is obtained. It is believed that she descended from Bombyx mandarina mori- a wild silk moth that lives on white mulberry trees only in China. In the process of selection, she lost her ability to fly and can only eat, mate, produce offspring and produce silk fibers.

In addition, there is another type of moth in nature - Antheraea mylitta also producing silk fiber, but coarser. The threads obtained from it are called tussa.

Female Bombyx mori, having hatched from a cocoon, mates with a male. After that, within 4-6 days, it lays up to 500 or more eggs, and soon after that it dies. Only healthy eggs are selected for further use. They are sorted and tested for infection. Sick eggs are burned. Silkworm eggs are very small and light - the weight of a hundred hardly reaches 1 gram. They are kept at about 18 degrees Celsius, gradually increasing to 25 degrees Celsius.

Around the seventh day, small worms hatch, the size of which does not exceed 2 mm. It is this larval stage of the moth that is called, in fact, the silkworm. Then, for a month, silkworms constantly eat, increasing their weight and size. So, at the age of 4-5 weeks, their length reaches 3 cm or more, and during this time the weight increases thousands of times!

They feed exclusively on mulberry leaves, which are collected and selected by hand for them, and then crushed. Feeding takes place regularly, day and night. During this time, thousands of feeding worms are contained in special pallets, which are stacked one on top of the other.

In the room where the worms are kept, a constant temperature regime and humidity. They must be protected from any hesitation. external environment like: loud noises, drafts, strong food odors and even sweat. From thousands of jaws grinding mulberry leaves, there is a constant hum, reminiscent of the sound of heavy rain drumming on the roof. During this time, the worms shed several times, gradually changing their color from gray to pale pink.

Finally, it's time to cocoon. The silkworm begins to worry, shaking its head back and forth. The caterpillars are placed in separate compartments. With the help of two special glands - spinnerets - the worms begin to produce a gelatinous substance that hardens upon contact with air. The substance that silkworms produce has two main components. The first is fibroin, an insoluble protein fiber that accounts for 75-90% of production. The second is sericin, a sticky substance designed to hold cocoon fibers together. In addition to them, there are also fats, salts, wax.

For three to four days, silkworms wind a cocoon around themselves, placing themselves inside it. They become like white fluffy elongated tangles. At this time, cocoons are sorted by color, size, shape, etc.

Then another 8-9 days pass, and the cocoons are ready to unwind. If time is missed, the pupa will turn into a moth and break through the cocoon, damaging the integrity of the filament. Therefore, the chrysalis must first be killed. To do this, it is exposed to heat, after which the cocoon is dipped into hot water to dissolve the sticky substance sericin that holds the threads together. At this point, only a small part of it is removed, about 1%, but this is enough for the thread to be unwound.

After that, they find the end of the thread, pass it through the porcelain peephole and carefully begin to unwind, winding it on the bobbin. Each cocoon produces a thread with an average length of 600 to 900 meters, and individual individuals - up to 1000 meters or more!

Then 5-8 threads are twisted together to get one thread from them. When one of the threads ends, a new one is twisted to it, and thus a very long thread is formed. Sericin promotes adhesion of one strand to another. The resulting product - raw silk, is wound into skeins of yarn. This process is currently automated.

The skeins of raw silk yarn are sorted by color, size and other characteristics. Then the silk threads are twisted again to achieve a uniform structure and density. Different yarns can be twisted at this stage to obtain different fabric textures. Then the threads are passed through special rollers. After that, the yarn goes to the weaving mill.

Here, the yarn is again soaked in warm soapy water. Refining takes place, as a result of which the weight of the yarn is reduced by about 25%. After that, the yarn acquires a creamy white color and can then be dyed and subjected to additional processing processes. Only then can you start making the fabric.

Silk fibers that were not used for spinning, for example, from broken cocoons, torn ends, etc., can also be twisted into threads, like those obtained from cotton or flax. The quality of this silk is lower, it tends to be weak and fuzzy. It can be used, for example, to make a silk blanket.

Interesting statistics: silk for a men's tie requires, on average, 111 cocoons, and silk for sewing a women's blouse - 630!

Despite the fact that now there are many artificial fibers - polyester, nylon, etc., none of them can compare in quality with real silk. Silk fabrics warm in cool weather and cool in hot weather, they are pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye. In addition, silk thread is more durable than steel thread of equal diameter!

In conclusion - a short poem about the difficulties of silkworm breeding:

养蚕词
Yăng cán cí
Silkworm Feeding Songs

作者：缪嗣寅
Zuòzhě: Miào Sìyín

蚕初生，
Cán chū shēng
[When] the silkworm is born,

采桑陌上提筐行；
Cǎi sāng mò shàng tí kuāng xíng
I collect mulberry leaves, walk along the border with a basket;

蚕欲老，
Cán yù lǎo
[When] the silkworm caterpillar prepares to mature,

夜半不眠常起早。
Yèbàn bù mián cháng qǐ zǎo
I don't sleep late at night and often get up early.

衣不暇浣发不簪，
Yī bù xiá huàn fà bù zān
I don't have time to wash my clothes and I don't put my hair down,

还恐天阴坏我蚕。
Hái kǒng tiān yīn huài wǒ cán
I'm also afraid the rainy weather will spoil my silkworms.

回头吩咐小儿女，
Huítóu fēnfù xiǎo nǚ’er
Looking back, I teach my little daughter,

蚕欲上山莫言语。
Cán yù shàng shān mò yányŭ
[When] the silkworm caterpillars are about to climb [to highlight the silk], don't you dare talk!

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